Designer Revolving Door

Alessandra Facchinetti
Out At Valentino

Today In Renovations:

Bloomingdales Gains MoMENtum
As New Men's Floor Is Unveiled

UPDATED Diversity Report Redux:

Paris Looks Pale

Parisrunwayshots
And we're still counting.
It's somewhere near the middle of Paris Fashion Week, and we're still looking to see if designers still have a tin ear to the issue of minority models, or rather the lack thereof on runways.
As we have said, this is a purely unscientific survey, where we try to focus on the higher profile designer's shows to see if things are progressing in a more diverse direction.
Again, we're not in Paris, but relying on Style.com mainly because they are thorough in identifying most of the models in each show, making it easier to tell who is whom when there are elaborate hair and makeup styles in effect.
As far as progress goes, things seem to be moving at a glacial pace in the City of Lights so far. For all the Vivienne Westwoods and Jean-Paul Gaultiers whose runway casts are abundantly diverse, there remain a surprising number of labels like Balenciaga, Balmain, Nina Ricci and Rick Owens who scored big fat zeros, employing not a single minority face on their catwalks. As usual, most of the minority cast slots have gone to Chanel Iman and Jourdan Dunn, with Arlenis Sosa and comeback kid Sessilee Lopez close behind.
It's not to say that the Balenciaga show didn't look fantastic and we wouldn't have loved to see it in person, but it's disappointing at this point that Nicholas Ghesquiere doesn't seem willing to see or show his work on a more varied group. We won't go so far as to accuse these designers of willful exclusion, but at the very least, there still appears to be a pattern of exclusion by apathy, or just plain insensitivity. Perhaps the biggest surprise was the all-white cast at Yohji Yamamoto, a Japanese designer.
There are still plenty of shows to come including Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano and Louis Vuitton.
We will try and keep the list updated as the week goes on.
UPDATED for 10/2:
No zeroes today, but many shows with a single token girl, including Givenchy. This was surprising as Designer Riccardo Tisci opened his last couture show with three minority models, but this time only included Lakshmi Menon, his current campaign star, in a single look.
10/3:

Same as above. YSL, Celine, Giambattista Valli & Stella McCartney added. Wouldn't we like to see someone else crack the 10% ceiling? We won't today.
10/4:
Today's booby prize goes to Chanel. Valentino goes with a token, but Alessandra Facchinetti has other things to worry about, and McQueen almost hits 10%.

10/5:
The season's winner has to be Jean Paul Gaultier who again used an abundance of minority models at Hermès. that's two shows this week with a quotient of over 20%
10/6:
Well, we're done counting, and we may be leaving this issue for awhile. Today we added Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu. There were no big surprises. It's been interesting, and now we know all the models' names. There were some designers who were heroes and others who were disappointing.
At the end, it's hard to believe that when hiring as many as 30 or in some cases 50 models, some designers can't seem to find more than one minority model (if that) who "fits their vision", while others can find five, six or seven.

A full rundown of the major Paris shows after the jump:

A.F. VANDERVOORST: 0%
39 looks
0 Black or Asian Models
ALEXANDER McQUEEN: 9.75%
41 models in 41 looks
2 Black models, Chanel Iman & Jourdan Dunn in 2 looks
2 Asian models including Daul Kim in 2 looks
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER: 0%
34 models in 39 looks
0 Black or Asian models
ANNE VALÉRIE HASH: 11.6%
28 models in 32 looks
3 black models, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn & Chanel Iman in 4 looks.
BALENCIAGA: 2.4%
42 models in 42 looks
1 Asian model, Liu Wen, in 1 look
0 Black models
BALMAIN: 0%
17 models in 38 looks
0 Black or Asian Models
BRUNO PIETERS: 11.9%
17 models in 25 looks
2 Black models, Kinée Douf & Aminata Niaria in 3 looks
CELINE: 7.5%
34 models in 48 looks
3 Black models, Jourdan Dunn, Yordanos Teshager & Arlenis Sosa in 3 looks
CHANEL: 0%
A whopping 41 models in 71 looks
0 Black or Asian models
CHLOÉ: 3.4%
26 models in 34 looks
1 Asian Model, Liu Wen in 1 look
CHRISTIAN DIOR: 8.9%
45 models in 45 looks
3 Black models, Jourdan Dunn, Chanel Iman & Arlenis Sosa in 3 looks
1 Asian Model, Shu Pei Qui in 1 look
CHRISTIAN LACROIX: 3%
33 models in 33 looks
1 black model, Chanel Iman in 1 look
COLETTE DINNIGAN: 12.7%
16 models in 39 looks
2 black models, Sessilee Lopez & Yordanos Teshager in 5 looks
DRIES VAN NOTEN: 14%
40 models in 55 looks
3 Black models, including Jourdan Dunn & Georgie Badiel in 4 looks
3 Asian models incliding Hye Park in 3 looks
ELIE SAAB: 13%
24 models in 44 looks
1 black model in 2 looks
1 Asian model in 2 look
! South Asian/Indian model, Lakshmi Menon in 2 looks
EMANUEL UNGARO: 7.4%
24 models in 38 looks
1 Black model, Arlenis Sosa, in 2 looks
1 South Asian/Indian model, Lakshmi Menon, in 2 looks
GARETH PUGH: 5.4%
23 models in 31 looks
1 Black model, Jourdan Dunn, in 2 looks
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI: 8%
28 models in 46 looks
2 Black models, Shelby Coleman & Chanel Iman in 4 looks
GIVENCHY: 2.4%
39 models in 46 looks
1 South Asian/Indian model, Lakshmi Menon, in 1 look
HERMÈS: 21.7%
42 models in 50 looks
6 Black models, Naomi Campbell, Sessilee Lopez, Arlenis Sosa, Jourdan Dunn, Chanel Iman & Yasmin Warsame in 8 looks
2 Asian models, Kiki Kang & Liu Wen in 2 looks
1 South Asian/Indian model, Lakshmi Menon in 1 look
0 Black or Asian models
JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER: 22.7%
27 models in 56 looks
3 Black models, Yasmine Warsame, Jourdan Dunn & Arlenis Sosa in 7 looks
2 Asian models, Liu Wen & Kiki Kang in 4 looks
1 South Asian/Indian model, Lakshmi Menon, in 2 looks
JOHN GALLIANO: 6.4%
47 models in 47 looks
2 Black models in 2 looks
1 Asian Model, Shu Pei Qui in 1 look
KRIS VAN ASSCHE: 23.6%
12 models in 27 looks
3 black models, including Shelby Coleman & Yordano Teshager in 6 looks
LAGERFELD: 3.6%
25 models in 31 looks
1 Black model, Sessilee Lopez in 1 look
LANVIN: 6.7%
39 models in 53 looks
3 Black models, Kinée Douf, Sessilee Lopez & Aminata Niaria in 3 looks
LOUIS VUITTON: 9.6%
52 models in 52 looks
3 Black models, Georgie Badiel, Chanel Iman & Jourdan Dunn in 3 looks
2 Asian models, Liu Wen & Hye Park in 2 looks
MIU MIU: 2.7%
1 Black model, Jourdan Dunn in 1 look
NINA RICCI: 0%
33 models in 33 looks
0 Black or Asian Models
RICK OWENS: 0%
20 models in 36 looks
0 Black or Asian Models
SONIA RYKIEL: (approx) 7 to 10%
Difficult to judge a mammoth show with over 100 looks on line, but the cast included Lakshmi Menon, Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn, Hollis Wakeema, Hye Park & Liu Wen among others.
STELLA McCARTNEY: 6.8%
23 models in 41 looks
1 Black model, Jourdan Dunn in 1 look
1 South Asian/Indian model, Lakshmi Menon in 1 look
VALENTINO: 3.2%
26 models in 38 looks
1 Black model, Jourdan Dunn in 1 look
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: 37.5%
5 Black models, Aminata Niaria, Hollis Wakeema, Adama, Thais Dos Santos & Sessilee Lopez in 10 looks
2 Asian models, Han Jin & Shu Pei Qui in 4 looks
2 South Asian/Indian models, Puja Battacherjee & Kangana in 4 looks
YOHJI YAMAMOTO: 0%
21 Models in 35 looks
0 Black models, and 0 Asian models, very surprising for a Japanese designer.
YVES SAINT LAURENT: 2.7%
33 models in 42 looks
1 Black model, Chanel Iman in 1 look

Comments

Sorry to hear that Balenciaga used "0" Black models, as I am an African American female who bought my first Balenciaga bag from Barney's a year ago and was really looking forward to buying a pink or brown Giant City bag as a Christmas present for myself this year. Oh well, this will likely help me "be good" in this uncertain economy and not make the purchase.

Keep up the good work. Thanks

Oh dear... rather bad news as usual re diversity but great work as usual on your part in keeping the design world on its toes.

Keep up the good fight. We're all with you and grateful to shophound for taking the time to pay such close attention to this issue. Major kudos to you! :)

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