The Shophound

Personal Appearance Alert: Nancy Gonzalez Gets Published

If you haven't yet gotten over to Bergdorf Goodman to see their exceptional windows, let us give you another reason to brave the midtown Holiday crowds: Crocodile queen Nancy Gonzalez will be there Thursday and Friday afternoons, December 10^th and 11^th (that's starting tomorrow) to sell some of her popular exotic skin bags and accessories and to sign copies of her brand new mongraph book from Assouline, a perfect gift for any Nancy fan, and there are many. You probably know several if you aren't one yourself.
The designer will at Bergdorf's from 2 to 5 PM, with the book and her new clutch collection featuring over 100 bags in a dazzling array of limited edition hues.

The Window Watcher: Bergdorf Goodman Remains The Window Champ

It's sort of like watching Roger Federer win Wimbeldon again. It's not necessarily a given, but it's never a surprise to see Bergdorf Goodman roll out the most accomplished Holiday windows. Titled "A Compendium of Curiosities", they are once again, dazzling and sumptuous, inspired this year by Lewis Carroll and including some not especially literal adaptations of scenes from the "Alice In Wonderland" books.
As usual, the windows bear extended viewing, and while children will stand in crowds to gaze at the storybook windows at Saks (which we haven't seen yet) it's not unusual to see clumps of grown adults standing thunderstruck in front of these displays, drinking in the incredibly detailed dioramas before them. Of particular interest were the figures of varying sizes all dressed in miniaturized Alexander McQueen outfits, for example. We must say that this makes it extremely hard to photograph these windows (it took two trips!), and while you may have seen some pictures already, we made sure our shots were as free and clear of reflection as possible.
Though the windows are gorgeous, Bergdorf's is not above falling back on some of its favorite tricks like the "view from above" used in the card game scene. The glittering mirrored corner window, "Reflected Reveries and Meticulous Metronomes", which has proved to be a particular favorite for the picture taking public, reminds us that every year, there is always one window, a grand finale of sorts, all in white or silver or some combination of the two. Let's just call it "working their signature looks". Nobody's complaining when everything is this beautifully executed.

Click HERE for a complete slideshow of Bergdorfs' Main Fifth Avenue windows plus one extra shot from the Men's Store.
After the jump, a behind the scenes video courtesy of New York Magazine's The Cut.

More Christmas Creep: In Which We Are Further Annoyed By Barneys & Cartier

We are not really given to ranting that much over here at The Shophound, but last week we felt compelled to express our displeasure at seeing early Christmas decorations going up before Halloween at the Bloomingdale's flagship on 59^th Street. Well, Halloween has just passed, but its still too early, and we were disappointed to see that both Barneys and Cartier are also jumping the gun.
Let's clarify.
We don't want to see Christmas trees and tinsel until we do, and not a moment before.
It's like seeing someone in a gorgeous winter coat in September. You know someone can't wait to wear this fabulous thing, but no matter how stupendous it may be, it's still ridiculously out of season. That's how we felt about Barney's main floor yesterday (pictured above). We are actually excited about their "Saturday Night Live" inspired Holiday theme, we just don't want to see it until it's time.
As for Cartier (below with Saks), their decorations are the same as they are every year, so what's the rush? They stick out like quite the sore thumb at the moment.
Saks Fifth Avenue gets a reprieve. Although they already have their animated snowflake light show installed on the Fifth Avenue storefront, it isn't turned on, and the main floor, as of yesterday, is still happily free of Holiday décor.
Of the big stores we surveyed this week, only Bergdorf Goodman remains untouched by Holiday Elves. Though their current windows, created in conjunction with Dell Computers, are incredibly lavish, they are not in fact the store's Holiday windows, as some other bloggers had assumed.
When will we be ready for Holiday decorations?
The week before Thanksgiving at the earliest
So to recap:
It's still too early for Christmas decorations.
Gold Star for Bergdorf's. ★
Booby Prizes for Barneys and Cartier. ☹
That is all.
Previously:
Today In Jumping The Gun: In Which We Get Annoyed By Christmas In October

Today In Liquidation: Bankruptcy For Best & Co. Shutters Children's Shop At Bergdorf's

It's back to the trash heap of long lost stores for Best & Co. as Connecticut based retailer which has also been operating the children's department at Bergdorf Goodman is liquidating. The company which though a series of acquisitions is now part of Toys R Us, filed a Chapter 7 petition for liquidation Friday in New Jersey.
Originally remembered as a great Fifth Avenue department store, the Best & Co. name was revived in the late '90s by Susie (the former Mrs. Tommy) Hilfiger in Greenwich, Connecticut as a high end children's store featuring luxury clothes for children, often attracting designers to make special collections. It was a natural fit to take over a leased space on Bergdorf's 7^th floor where children's clothing had been eliminated years before. The Greenwich store was precipitously shut on Saturday, and the Bergdorf's space will also close.
Hilfiger sold her company to FAO Schwarz in 2007, and Schwarz was acquired by Toys R Us last month. Presumably, the toy behemoth wanted little to do with a money-losing, exclusive specialty apparel business (can you blame them?). Bergdorf's is now listed among the company's creditors. From all reports, Toys R Us will continue operating the FAO Schwarz stores in New York and Las Vegas, but, for now, it's curtains for Best & Co.
Best & Co. Files Chapter 7 Liquidation (WWD)

Window Report: Bergdorf Goodman Salutes The Met's Model Muses

If you couldn't make it to last night's Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, you can at least stop by Fifth Avenue to catch a view of Bergdorf Goodman's latest set of windows. This week, they are inspired by the Met's new exhibit, The Model As Muse, and feature clever recreations of famous fashion photographs. There's a nod to Cecil Beaton's deco ballgowns, a mod moment with Twiggy by Bert Stern, Peter Lindbergh's troop of Chanel clad Supermodel biker chicks, and even a recreation of Richard Avedon's iconic "Dovima With Elephants" using a pair of giraffes as stand-ins. We particularly liked the mirror effect created by Steven Meisel's famous shot of a peroxided Linda Evangelista for a Dolce & Gabbana advertisement (though the actual dress in the window is by someone else!).
The windows were just being finished as we write this, so you probably have couple of weeks to see them, and the Costume Institute exhibit runs until August 9th.
As for the Party of the Year, we're still waiting on the pictures from Style.com, but Cathy Horyn's blog for the Times tells us of a last minute kerfuffle with a miffed Azzedine Alaïa, who created several dresses for models to wear to the party, but was not invited himself! As a result Alaïa muses and devotées Naomi Campbell and Stephanie Seymour say they're boycotting the party, which leaves the ranks of actual Supermodels a little thin.
Really, if RuPaul isn't there, then what's the point anyway?
Alaïa Pulls His Dresses From the Met Gala (On The Runway)

Click images for a larger view in a new window.

Post-Christmas ReportShopping FrenzyAt Lukewarm Levels

Just checking in with a quick update on the inevitable After-Christmas sales.
The bad news is that if you waited until after Christmas for the After-Christmas sales you will discover that for the most part, they started before Christmas, in many cases sometime last week.
You can hardly be blamed for waiting until the normal time for things to start, but this season, all rule books have been discarded. It's every retailer for itself out there, and in the case of Saks, who jumped the gun and marked down deeply way ahead of schedule (and forcing competitors to follow suit), there's not much left to be sold at what is now an extra 60% off already reduced prices. This sale brings some merchandise to something like 85% off the original price, which is essentially unheard of without an employee discount. That would be fabulous... if the store weren't so well picked over by now. Compare today's crowd, pictured above, with the throngs seen from the same view from last year and the year before, pictured below :

(click all images for a larger view in a new window)
There's no comparison.
Either customers know that the best stuff is gone, or they simply aren't shopping at all right now, or, more likely, a little bit of both.
Ditto the scene at Bergdorf Goodman (pictured at right) which was also relatively relaxed.
Most of the women's apparel there was marked down to 75% off in the price tags. Bergdorf's generally eschews "take an extra percentage off" promotion, and instead goes for the hard, permanent price change. 75% is a bit higher than they usually go for a final markdown, and it usually doesn't happen there until sometime in January. There is a little more left there than at Saks, but by and large the store is full of fresh Resort and Early Spring collections. The piles of sale handbags covering the counters there a few weeks ago are now gone gone gone.
Over at Bergdorf Men's, the markdowns are hovering around 60% for sale goods, which is actually a little less than their usual second price change. Perhaps they are seeing how much they can sell before an unusual third markdown next month, or maybe stores didn't actually need to slash prices as drastically as they did.
More of the same is found at Barneys, most sale merchandise is down to around 75% off.
Is it worth going out? That's up to you, dear shoppers. This is New York, so there is always going to be something left for you to buy. The advantage is that crowds are down, so you will likely be spared the traditional pushing & shoving.
As for us, we are about to retuen to our normal Holiday schedule of Important TV Watching.

Holiday WindowsBergdorf Goodman's Seasonal Spree

Everyone needs a little Holiday escapism, and this year, Bergdorf Goodman has once again more than lived up to its reputation for having the most lavish Christmas windows. This season, the store's big five Fifth Avenue windows are devoted to fanciful interpretations of the Four Seasons, or the Four Seasons plus one extra season.
All the familiar elements are there like unabashedly sumptuous theatrical settings stuffed with items, some for sale, others not. As usual, there are always a couple of human mannequins with animal heads as well as a liberal use of taxidermy specimens. Of course there's also some clothes including Eva Longoria's beaded fringe Marchesa Emmy awards dress among other opulent outfits.
After last year's kaleidoscopic tribute to designer Tony Duquette, the palate has now been limited to snowy silvers and grays with flashes of gold for good measure, and while the Fifth Avenue windows are the showpieces, the palette extends to all the other windows with those on the 58^th street side reflecting the image of the recent would-be competitor, the Plaza Hotel.
Like a new take on a favorite Christmas cookie, Bergdorf's windows are always a welcome treat. Who could resist a window featuring shrubbery made from macaroons? Well, not us, and since foot traffic on Fifth Avenue is appreciably lighter this year, there are far fewer crowds to push through to get there. The other added plus? The deep, early clearance reductions waiting for you should you dare to enter the store.

You'll find more of our shots after the jump. Be sure to click the images for a larger view in another window. Bergforf's own full-on shots of the main windows can be found on their website HERE.
Bergdorf Goodman 754 Fifth Avenue between 57^th & 58^th Streets, Midtown

The Window Watcher:Has Bergdorf GoodmanGotten Even More Exclusive?

So, a Chanel gown in the window of Bergdorf Goodman is not a particularly big deal. There's practically one in there every week, so what's the big deal about this one?
The text on the window reads:

CHANEL
Haute Couture
Fall Winter 2008
for information, visit our
Chanel Boutique on 2

Bergdorf's houses one of the most successful Chanel Boutiques anywhere, but what they and pretty much every other Chanel Boutique, whether freestanding or in-store, sell is deluxe Prêt à Porter, which, while wildly expensive and beautifully made, is not actually Couture. This gown is, and as such has to be custom made in Paris after a series of fittings for a price we would estimate to be in the high five figure range or higher.
So is Bergdorf's now taking orders for Chanel Haute Couture?
Well, no, according to our inquiry, but perhaps in efforts to counter the publicity blitz over the new Chanel Boutique at Saks, Bergdorf's has invited this gown for a rare visit to Fifth Avenue for the week or so, just to remind everyone who is top dog when it comes to opulence.
Click images for a larger view.

Tom Ford SpawnsAt Bergdorf Goodman

Like any good designer with his sights set on Megabrand status, Tom Ford is rolling out carefully art directed shop-in-shops for his eponymous menswear collection, and a big one has landed at Bergdorf Goodman's Men's Store. It is being touted as the biggest in-store boutique that Bergdorf's has ever done (at least in the men's store) and includes all of Ford's lines including fragrance and accessories. It will be the only other outlet for Ford in the city aside from his own store. It covers the entirety of what was originally a Polo Shop (way back when the store first opened), a golf shop and more at the eastern end of the second floor. The lushly appointed suite of rooms contains a meticulous re-creation of Ford's Old-Hollywood-glam Madison Avenue flagship décor with a few strategic improvements.
Most notably, the doors are off the display fixtures. While the main boutique keeps almost everything in intimidating glass cabinets, Bergdorf's has wisely chosen to dispense with this detail, allowing for comfortable browsing without having to have a salesperson pull things out of drawers and armoires for just a brief look. By the same token, Ford's own boutique staff, whose concepts of service can veer wildly between suffocating hovering and stony indifference, is absent, replaced by Bergdorf's men's staff who, in our humble, but slightly biased opinion, are collectively the city's most skilled and professional. Also missing is the Lucio Fontana vagina-inspired painting that haunts the Madison Avenue entrance. Again, no great loss.
All this makes Ford's collection even more appealing, until you get to the prices, which are still kind of appalling, keeping it at the high end of Bergdorf's offerings - and that's a very high end. We have it on good authority, however that the prices aren't deterring customers, and Ford's $1,600 shoes are selling briskly.
Tom Ford at Bergdorf Goodman's Men's Store 745 Fifth Avenue, Second Floor, Midtown

Christmas Window Winner: Bergdorf Goodman

It's not much of a surprise that Bergdorf Goodman wins our unofficial Holiday window survey. To be honest, we haven't even been able to see Saks' windows because that would require pushing through the teeming midtown crowds of especially slack-jawed tourists who seem to be there 24 hours a day.
But back to Bergdorf's. No kiddee stories or smiling Santas here. These are windows for grown-ups. While rival Barneys has gone all schoolmarmish a few blocks away, BG has gone in entirely the opposite direction with unbridled extravagance. This year's inspiration is the multitasking Hollywood designer Tony Duquette who is enjoying another posthumous revival. Duquette's outrageous aesthetic is particularly well suited to Christmas windows, and each Fifth Avenue vitrine is inspired by one of the elements, Earth, Air, Fire Water and Light, which apparently becomes an element when you have another window to fill (and here we thought all along that the Fifth Element was Milla Jovovich in a Gaultier bandage). We can totally forgive them for that minor bit of interpolation when the windows look this good.
Our photos won't quite do them justice, but Bergdorf's has kindly documented them for all to see in a gallery that can be seen here.