The Shophound

Paris Runway Schadenfreude Report: Linsday Lohan's Ungaro Début Is The Bomb ...And Not The Good Kind

We certainly won't be the only ones to comment on this story, but we're just as morbidly fascinated as everyone else as everyone else to discover the results of Lindsay Lohan's unlikely new job as "Artistic Advisor" for the eminent Parisian couture house Emanuel Ungaro (and she gave us the opportunity to use the word 'schadenfreude' again, so thanks, Linds).
It looks like the press had their knives sharpened and ready to skewer the actress-turned-leggings-peddler, and they weren't disappointed.
See the slings and arrows in action:

• “Pas possible,” said Fabien Baron, the noted French art director shortly after the Emanuel Ungaro show on Sunday. “Call the fashion police!”
“We love Lindsay Lohan — as an actress,” Mr. Baron said. “Period.” At the next show, Greg Kessler, a photographer for Style.com, was snapping pictures of front-row guests and asking them to pose as Ms. Lohan by holding up their hands, ashamedly, in front of their faces.

-Eric Wilson, The New York Times

• This quickly devolved into a bad joke of a fashion show, one with questionable color combinations, "bad eighties" draped silk jackets and drop-crotch pants, old-fashioned and ill-judged fur stoles, and, yes, tasteless sequin pasties. To top it off, the fabrics and the construction lacked the finesse you expect from a famous Avenue Montaigne brand.

-Nicole Phelps, Style.com

• As for the clothes, they looked cheesy and dated.

-WWD

• It was hard to imagine that Ms. Lohan and [chief designer Estrella] Archs could concoct a collection that is as cringe-worthy as this.

-Christina Binkley/The Wall Street Journal -Heard On The Runway

• The result of the last-ditch collaboration between Archs and Lohan was better than expected, though it must be added that expectations were rock bottom.
More questionable looks included a white bustier dress so short it left the model's rear hanging out, spandex bandeau tops and a suit worn with nothing more substantial underneath than sparkling heart-shaped pasties. Bafflingly, many of the models had larger versions of the pasties affixed to their foreheads.

-Jenny Barchfield/Associated Press via The Washington Post

• Nothing in the collection evidenced any real skill or discernible design work. In fact, you could probably find a lot of it already on the shelves at Kitson. I did hear someone remark that they liked the shoes, which had narrow, stair-step heels. 
Still, there's really no defending this misguided collection, other than as a desperate bid for attention from a house that hasn't mattered since its founder retired in 2004. I just don't think it's the kind of attention they had in mind.

-Booth Moore/Los Angeles Times Blog

• [Regarding the after-show party] Bigger crowds have turned out for free champagne at store openings.

-Christina Passariello/Wall Street Journal-Heard On The Runway

• For a start, there were not as many of the visible bras that have been out there on other catwalks. But that was because there were often no bras at all — only wardrobe malfunctions, bits of black masking tape or sequined pasties popping from jackets tricked out with hearts.

-Suzy Menkes/The New York Times-International Herald Tribune

• It was entertaining, certainly, but quite what any of it had to do with a name that once stood proudly for bourgeois elegance and, even more so, Parisian sophistication is less clear.

-Susannah Frankel, The Independent

• The best that can be said is that they tried.
There were some truly hideous fashion faux pas. Silver sequinned "pasties", for example, belong in a lap dancing club

-Hilary Alexander, The Telegraph

In fairness, many expressed sympathy for new designer Estrella Archs and noted that she had only three weeks to pull the collection together, but a look at the runway photos is a grim experience, despite the forced merriment of all the hot pepto-pink minidresses and apparently frequent boob-flashing featuring the sparkly pasties. (The pictures keep reminding us of Kira Plastinina. It's that bad.) Ms. Archs, it appears will be given the benefit of the doubt. La Lohan, not so much. Many suggested that the still very much alive Monsieur Ungaro must be mortified to see what has happened to the house he worked so hard to build, but if he is wise, then he will have simply averted his eyes from the entire revolving designer affair that has plagued his label for a long time now. Also widely reported on was the crush of press and paparazzi outside the show, and a bloated photographer's pit. Lohan was reported to have had tear-filled eyes at her runway bow, though they have been variously described as tears of joy at her accomplishment or of humiliation at the tepid response from the audience. Apparently, reality had fully set in by the time of the post-show party at the Hotel Plaza Athenée, which was described as subdued and poorly attended.
The real result of this whole effort will be revealed in a few days —maybe a week— after the Spring orders are evaluated. At that point, the true verdict will be in on Ungaro CEO Mounir Mouffarige's gamble, and by all reports, it's not looking too promising.

Spring 2010 Fashion Week Wrap-Up:Never Underestimate The Attraction Of Office Supplies

Now that Fashion Week is over, we have a few shows that we wanted to mention who were kind enough to invite us.
Above is the Sharpie sponsor booth which appeared last Monday. What was most notable about the Fashion Week set-up this year was what was missing, most notably, the free Havaianas we have all gotten used to receiving every Fall as well as any other product launches or promotional opportunities. There was no M&M's press event or Boots giveaway. And M·A·C's absence was noticed, even though Maybelline had supposedly replaced them. A single afternoon of Lufthansa $100 gift vouvhers failed to attract much interest begging the question, "and who's going to pay for the rest of the flight?" Havaianas, at least was replaced by Sharpie, and if you think that's some kind of come-down you should have seen the swarms of women crushing into the booth for their free stuff. In addition to all the markers you could grab (literally), they were handing out women's t-shirts printed with a design by Betsey Johnson, white Wayfarer style sunglasses or white neckties all to be customized with markers. Aside from that, you may have noticed that we didn't write much about all the gift bags we received and that's because there weren't any.
The days of our ending a day of runway shows with armfulls of free haircare products or cosmetics or anything else appear to be over. Aside from John Bartlett's Kiehl's gift, Prabal Gurung's tub of Oxi-Clean and German cashmere brand Allude's cotton and silk scarf, our hands were mostly empty afte the shows which was disappointing, but also made for less to schlep from show to show. Inside the tents, however, the sponsors were less lavishly generous, although the Lu girls were back every day pressing us with more chocolate Petite Écolier biscuits than anyone should ever consume within the space of 8 days. They were also handing out fans which would have been extremely useful had the weather been as hot and steamy as it often can be in mid-September. While we appreciate environmental consideration the water in recyclable paper cartons, we're not that fond of paper-flavored water. As an alternative, instead of the vile energy drinks of the past, there was good old Coca-Cola (regular & diet). For those looking for more protein, there were coolers of Muscle Milk, as well as Peroni beer in the afternoons. The Peroni girls were back. Unfortunately, we didn't see the Peroni boys. Remember your market, people!
As for the rest of the shows, between running between Milk Studios and Bryant Park , we didn't have enough time to write about everything, but we wanted to mention:

MARIA PINTO, who got a lot of attention this time last year as Michelle Obama's hometown designer of choice. since then, the First Lady has turned towards younger critical darlings. Pinto came to fashion week and made sure everyone understands that she is no backwater seamstress. To that end she staged a lush presentation at Banchet on Gansevoort Street that showed she has much more in her repertoire than jewel necked sheaths. She also brought swag: Morrocanoil hair treatment and Amazing Cosmetics lip and cheek stain. We expect to see more from her even if her most prominent client has moved on.
DOO.RI is in a pivotal spot this season. Having received critical attention as a young designer from the CFDA and key retailers Doo Ri Chung is now poised to move to the next level and sent out some arresting dresses on Wednesday night. If the Promenade tent may still be a little roomy for her, her collection had a sure-handed confidence and some superb dresses.
ALLUDE, a German cashmere brand came to New York to introduce it's bright knitwear. Designer Andrea Karg presented a peppy, expertly styled, though mostly pants-less  show. As we mentioned before, there was also one of the week's few worthwhile gift bags —on every seat! Karg's colorful cashmere's left the audience smiling. Let's hope she returns next season with something to wear on the bottom half.
Joachim TRIAS came from Spain to present his architecturally inspired collection called "Lineal Study". In fact some of the striking dresses resembled the Guggenheim Museum, and while many of them were intriguing, it was unfortunate that most of the skirts were so narrow, and some of the shoes so ill fitting that even the expert catwalkers (Alana Zimmer, Tao Okamoto, Charlotte Di Calypso) were forced to take slow, careful steps. It's too bad, because Trias is technically accomplished enough to have attracted the attention of Carolina Herrera in the front row, but if the models can't walk in the clothes, then who can?

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week Day 8: Norma Kamali Hits The Street

Thursday morning, before we went to PHI and our final runway shows, The Shophound stopped by Norma Kamali's presentation at the Apple Store in SoHo.
Kamali is something of a legend who quietly follows her own path, and hasn't done a Fashion Week show in several seasons. She took the opportunity to announce a special collection available exclusively on eBay at wholesale prices topping out at $285, and an iPhone application that will allow customers to shop all three of her lines (the OMO, eBay and Walmart collections) from wherever they can get phone service. This preceded a runway show that was staged outside on Greene Street.
If only everything went as smoothly as all that. Kamali, apparently, began her talk promptly at 11 AM, just before the models started walking... in the rain. So, in the drizzle, we managed to catch the show just as it began under some conveniently located scaffolding at the corner of Greene and Prince streets.There were few people to witness it except for a small pit of photographers who incessantly yelled at the models to drop the signs that indicated which collection they were wearing, or walk closer to the middle, or stop, or go walk again because they missed the shot. Actually, it appeared to be mostly one photographer, veteran runway shooter Dan Lecca, who had seized the situation and was barking directions as if it was his own personal photo shoot. The models, to their credit, mostly remained composed, although some clearly found it jarring. It became so comically chaotic, that the entire show was repeated as more press appeared, and Lecca continued to shout. The models finally filed off to another drizzly photo opportunity further down the street under clear umbrellas.
As for the clothes (all three lines were shown together) they were classic Kamali in black, white, red and gray, including her signature sweatshirt fabric and parachute silks. During an ongoing '80 revival, it makes perfect sense to look to the designer who was one of the architects of that decade's look, and her collections skillfully referenced her heritage without slavishly reproducing it.
If the event was something of an entertaining mess, it edged Kamali closer to the spotlight, and may have reminded a few who really invented those big Lady Gaga shoulders.

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week Day 8: Re-Energizing At PHI

By Day 8 of Fashion Week, our energy level is generally low having consumed far too many Lu Petite Écolier biscuits and had not nearly enough sleep, but we are always recharged at the PHI show.
The label's show has become one of the most exclusive of the week, mostly because it is held in its Chelsea showroom and there just isn't that much room. It draws an audience whittled down to fashion's most important players, with no space for the parade of starlets who have been shuttling from show to show this week (Sorry, Kelly Rowland, Amanda Bynes & co.). A niche player for the past few years, best known to New Yorkers from its Greene Street boutique, PHI is bucking trends and experiencing a retail boom this season, so there was extra anticipation for the latest collection. If Fall's girl was a luxe biker, then for Spring she has morphed into a desert warrior in lean dresses and separates pulled together and laced up with outer corsets and carefully placed buckles and zippers. It's a look that could present kinky danger in the wrong hands (though that's clearly part of the idea) but designer Andreas Melbostad handled all the elements with characteristic finesse to the apparent delight of his audience including key editors and retailers as well as special guests like FIT's Valerie Steele and model turned deigner Erin Wasson.
Later we got an impromptu tour behind the scenes where we saw how the design studio, showroom and a remarkable atelier are all combined on the premises. It's a cleverly constructed engine that continues to fire on all cylinders.

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week Day 5: Better Off The Runway With J.Mendel, Barbara Tfank &A New Look At Gottex

It's Day 5, and time management has become a priority.
We made an early tent trip to pick up our Daily and WWD and to see Carlos Miele's well received show, but we skipped Jill Stuart around the corner at the New York Public Library because after two seasons of basically not being able to see anything at her show we decided to save ourselves some hassle, and checked out what was happening on Fifth Avenue instead (more on that later)
We had a cluster of downtown shows Monday afternoon, and we planned to quickly zip in and see J. Mendel's presentation on West 26th Street and then skibble on down to M·A·C & Milk to see Rad Hourani, and then perhaps pop into Barbara Tfank's presentation going on at the same time before we went back to the tents for Gottex.

Of course, there would be no quick zipping into J.Mendel at the Lehman Maupin Gallery which was mobbed. The drawback of being a gracious host and serving wine at some of these presentations is that people will just hang around and drink like it's a cocktail party completely oblivious to the  line of people waiting to get in and actually see the clothes. Once we fought our way through to see the models (including Aminata Niaria, our latest model crush after her winsome cameo on Sundance Channel's recent 'The Day Before' series), it was particularly delightful when they would give us a few seconds of posing or a look that we knew was directed at our camera. For Mendel, whose runway shows we miss, the format works well because a closer look reveals the remarkable workmanship and intricate fabric treatments the house is known for. This season it was all lightness and ice cream colors, and they quickly ran out of the folders that would have told us what everything was actually made of.
Of course, by the time we were done, Rad Hourani was out of the question (Sorry, Rad. We tried), Luckily, Barbara Tfank was doing at the same time (finally an advantage for M·A·C & Milk). The designer has raised her profile a bit this year by dressing singer Adele for the Grammy Awards, reportedly at the behest of Anna Wintour herself. Tfank's collection had a retro "Betty Draper out for cocktails" look and her presentation had single models (including Pat Cleveland's daughter, rising star Anna) taking turns on a white seamless backdrop, creating an open photo shoot so we could play Irving Penn for a few minutes.

We finished the day at Gottex, where a new designer, Molly Grad, was making her début. Swimwear shows usually don't get the kind of attention that ready-to-wear will at Fashion Week, but Grad's show could easily have been titled "Not Your Mother's Gottex." There was the requisite beading details and coordinating cover-ups, but the show looked sexier and more modern than it has in years. Clearly, Gottex is looking to give the Brazilian swimwear masters some extra competition. We have to admit that as good as it all looked, we kind of missed the old Gottex shows with their old time-y sections and themes, and the fantasy accessories and headpieces. These are the sacrifices we have to make for progress, but Grad did her best to make up for the loss by putting her collection on the best models like Eniko, Abbey Lee, Sessilee, Arlenis and Aminata (showing up in three shows we saw today).

More pictures after the jump

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week Day 4: Party Dresses And A Big Blowout From Thuy, Hervé Léger & Custo Barcelona

After the jarring Behnaz Sarafpour experience Sunday morning, we returned to the tents in the afternoon. We started with our first Thuy show in the Salon tent. There was a celebrity, Tiffani-Amber Thiessen (Yeah, we know she's dropped the Amber, but we haven't), and so the show could begin. It was a fully packed tent for a relatively little known designer. The line was promising, though featuring sexy, draped party dresses with zipper details that referenced the still important '80s aesthetic without slavishly trying to recreate it.
Onward and forward to Hervé Léger, where the question is always how will Max Azria make those bandage dresses look new again? Before we got the answer, we were treated to Azria's traditional parade of bandaged starlets which included Amanda Bynes, Mischa Barton and, causing a paparazzi stampede, Hilary Duff. Do people really care about this girl, who seems pretty and nice enough. Apparently so, and IMG's security had to step in to keep crowds from crushing the actress. As for those dresses, Azria cleverly freshened them up with twisted and woven effects that looked inventive but might leave an interesting macramé pattern on the torso when removed. We're not entirely sure that the version in strips of denim substituting for elastic will have too many takers, but we're pretty sure some hapless young actress will wear it on a Red Carpet somewhere within the next couple of months.
Later we were back at Bryant Park again for Custo Barcelona's ascension to the big Tent. We were promised the tent transformed into a tropical paradise, a high energy show and a parade of stars. If by "tropical paradise" you mean stripped down tent with no runway, by "high energy" you mean extra loud music and by "parade of stars" you mean Tinsley Mortimer and Kenan Thompson, then they succeeded wildly. Further annoyances include the fact that they invited the immediate world, which means lots of people pumped to see a fashion show —any fashion show, also known as "Amateur Hour at Bryant Park". Also, our "seat assignment" was actually an already crowded standing section located as far away from the exit as possible. We were in a fine mood when we found ourselves there, and by the time the show started, we were thinking of what we could have been watching on TV had we stayed home. On the plus side, Custo Dalmau hired quite a few Black models. Unfortunately, he decided to sent them down the runway in segregated sections. First there were Black girls and guys, then White girls and guys, then Black girls and White guys.
This might be cool in Spain, but in New York, it's kinda racist don't you think?
As for the clothes, we were in no temper to make an objective judgment, but they mostly reminded us of circus costumes, except that most circus costumes are prettier.
Yeah, we don't expect to be seeing any more Custo Barcelona shows.

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week: Inside The Press Gift Bag

Opening the big Swag Bag for registered press at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is always a highlight, but lately the big satchel of free stuff has been shrinking a bit as belt tightening hits sponsor budgets. This season's receptacle is a bright orange vinyl zip top tote fittingly sponsored by Taubman the shopping mall giant. It falls about midrange on the garishness scale for such things, with limited re-usability potential. Here's what's the sponsors have inside for us:

• 1 .5 oz. tube Hylexin Serious Dark Circles eye cream
• Package of four Maybelline Colorsensational lipsticks in "Make Me Pink","Totally Toffee", "Very Cherry" and "Yummy Plummy"
• TRESemmé 4.2 oz Tres Two hairspray & 4 oz. Anti-Frizz Secret Smoothing Crème
• 1 Muscle Milk Light Smart Hunger Control bar in Vanilla Toffee Crunch
• 1 $5.00 McDonald's Arch Card
• Chambord Raspberry Mints
• DHL metal luggage tag
• Bonnie Marcus Collection holiday greeting cards from American Express
• Isharya.com 20% discount card
• Printed rayon shawl from Bindya New York
• 2 Free subscription card for Clear Magazine
• Madame Paulette professional stain removal kit
• 1 box Lu Petite Écolier dark chocolate biscuits
• Rouge Tomate gift card including a complimentary consultation with a nutritionist and $100 towards Lunch or Dinner.
• Vinyl travel bag
• 2 $500 Alex Soldier gift certificates (on a minimum $3,000 purchase)
• Ambrosi Abrianna press kit and 15% discount card
• Mercedes-Benz hotel discount card for European vacationers taking delivery of a new car in Stuttgart, Germany
• Special complimentary copy of Marvel Comics "Models Inc." Vol. 1 Issue 1 starring Tim Gunn

As usual, some things are highly useful, and some are not at all. Yes, the bag is lighter and smaller this year which is not entirely surprising, but still disappointing. What is missing, however, is a series of items that regular showgoers have probably stockpiled over the years like Chambord's mini liqueur globes, Peroni's beer glasses and various corkscrews and bottle openers. Inevitably, some may find Maybelline to be a poor substitute for the M·A·C swag that could be counted on, but what can you do?

Spring 2010 Fashion Week Day 4: On Behnaz Sarafpour And The Pitfalls Of A Bad Time Slot

Ever wonder what it's like to give a party and have nobody show up? Just ask Behnaz Sarafpour ...or maybe don't.
It's probably too painful to discuss.
The designer gamely took a bow after her Spring 2010 show with a smile, but we felt a twinge imagining how she must have felt waving to the nearly empty room. It was something of a disaster by anyone's standards. As we exited the show, we overheard someone commenting that had weather had been gloomy and rainy like the day before, the turnout would have been even worse. Could nobody else be convinced to come see the latest collection by a prominent, well-liked designer?
We were pretty astonished by the meager showing by press and buyers, but we had an inkling that her PR people were having trouble when, having never been invited to one of her shows at all, we received an email invitation including a seat assignment just the day before. Hey, we know we're not always on everybody's A-Lists, and we're familiar with last minute evites that pretty clearly indicate a little challenge filling the house. We don't mind. Surely, the trouble was mostly because of the show's 9 AM Sunday morning call time, not at Bryant Park, but at the heavily hyped but clearly flawed M·A·C & Milk at the Western end of 15^th Street. We have been to some poorly attended shows before, and this was not even the most sparse (that, sadly, would have been Aurelio Costarella Fall '07 at Bumble & Bumble), but most of them were the unfortunate results of triple and even quadruple booking the same time slot by people who should have known to expect the worst. Not so here. Behnaz's only competition was, we believe, the hour itself along with the inconvenience of the location. Sure, the Meatpacking District is popular for shopping and clubbing, but our anecdotal survey suggest that the fashion week crowd is already wearying of repeated trips between Bryant Park and Milk Studios which lies several blocks across town from even the most convenient subway line. The trek has been elevating taxi bills and tiring feet.
Still, one would still think that Behnaz Sarafpour, one of the better known designers showing at M·A·C & Milk, would be able to at least fill the small room, which comparable in size to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week's Salon tent. Her audience, however, filled 25% of the seats at best.
She is certainly no unknown neophyte. Though she is an independent niche player who has shown for about 8 years now, she has quietly built a faithful clientele for her youthful, feminine collection at the best stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. Barneys, a longtime supporter had its top fashion executives at the show bright and early along with a team from Neiman Marcus. Are Judy Collinson, Julie Gilhart and Ken Downing the only retail execs who are professional enough to appear at an early show? They were joined by stylist Freddie Leiba and a few others, but ultimately, there were barely enough warm bodies fill the front rows even after the apoplectic looking venue staff implored everyone to move to the front of their sections at about 9:40 AM, when restless photographers were beginning to howl for the show to finally start.
It's a pity, because she showed an appealing collection in draped and pleated silks and lace mixed with an urbane sensibility that kept the looks fresh. It was breezy, charming, beautifully detailed and, most importantly, all looked easy to sell, which is really what everyone is looking for these days. Here's hoping that more people stop into her showroom for a look, and that next season finds her in a more favorable time slot and location. Since hardly anyone was there, we tried to post as many looks as we could, so decide for yourself. We think Behnaz deserves a better shot.

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week Day 3: From Students To A Master With Academy Of Art University, Christian Siriano & Chado • Ralph Rucci

The Shophound's Fashion Week Saturday followed a rather interesting and totally unplanned progression as our shows ran the gamut from the newly graduated fashion students to Project Runway's most promising champion thus far to America's premier couturier.
Of course, our day was supposed to start at Adam by Adam Lippes, but in a rare misstep, his show was overbooked, and we never made it inside despite going out of our way to get to Milk Studios. We were more dismayed than anything, as Adam's PR firm is typically a model of efficiency and professionalism. Basically, we learned that though Milk Studios is in a cool (though not especially convenient) neighborhood and has some very good show spaces, it doesn't seem to have the kind of space or amenities that could ever make it a serious rival to the bigger tents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week uptown, where Adam showed last season. The West end of 15th Street is awfully far to go out of one's way to not see a show. We're not mad at you, Adam...just disappointed.
But back to the shows we did see.
Academy of Art University in the big Tent at Bryant Park always packs them in, but in this particular universe, Miss J. Alexander is the star guest who attracts the biggest throng of fans. So far, Miss J. is the only "America's Next Top Model" representative to to have a pesence in the tents as normally dedicated showgoer Nigel Barker (the noted photographer) has yet to make an appearance so far. Down the row from him was "Real Housewife" Alex McCord and her mini-entourage, whose quasi-celebrity is already tiring us. Bill Cunningham was busy shooting the audience, and major critical press was soley represented by Suzy Menkes, lending her much needed gravitas to the affair. As for the newly graduated students, those with the most flamboyant work drew the biggest cheers from the audience, but it was Brittney Major's cheerful plaid taffeta sportswear that showed its designer knew not to pile all her ideas into one outfit. One or two will do. Even the best efforts of top models like Myf and Siri Tollerød, who opened the show, couldn't mask that, though talented, some of the students were still in "design school" mode.
The Shophound was especially relieved to know our seat was safe at Christian Siriano's second runway show, so we could bypass the throngs checking in. Even two seasons after his big TV triumph, Siriano remains popular with the public, and has shown impressive business savvy scoring contracts with Payless, who shod his models, and Victoria's Secret from whom he borrowed show opening model Behati Prinsloo. Siriano's front row was one of the starriest we have seen so far. It was an eclectic group including Tori Spelling, Estelle, Veronica Webb, Kell andy Rowland, Kristen Johnston, Mena Suvari and Amerie, a group who pushed Siriano's fellow "Project Runway" alumni back to the second row.
As for the clothes, the pixieish designer has not strayed from the ultra-glamorous looks that made him famous on TV. If the results were not always as youthful as one might have hoped for, it's worth mentioning that he gets better with more extravagance culminating in fantasy gowns like a volcanic printed organza confection worn by Sessilee. This is one designer for whom more really is more, and Saks and Neiman Marcus were in attendance to show their interest.
To end the day, we had a champion of a different sort. The only celebrities who go to the Chado Ralph Rucci show are there because they are faithful and adoring customers like Martha Stewart, a front row regular. In fact, this is the one show where waiting for the tent to open is an golden opportunity to examine the designer's work up close. The clients, who are in abundance, pull out their best Chado outfits for the show. We found ourselves standing in front of Vanity Fair's Amy Fine Collins who wore a spectacular strapless cocktail dress in beaded, knotted fringe, while his chief patroness Deeda Blair sported a full skirted black dress with sheer insets. FIT's Valerie Steele swanned by in an intricately seamed jacket. There is as much of a Chado show in the audience as there is on the runway. Though some whisper of a rift between the designer and a certain all-powerful editor, it can't be so bad that André Leon Talley couldn't show up in a sweeping white satin coat.
As for the show, Rucci always starts with the simplest day clothes and builds the drama. The fabrics, silhouettes and decorative treatments become more and more elaborate as the show progresses, ending in an astonishing run of gowns that leaves his clients swooning, and this year was no different, sending his audience to its feet for an extended finale.

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week Day 2: It's Contemporary Time With Yigal Azrouël, Twinkle by Wenlan, Monarchy, Loden Dager, Generra and Arise

Fashion Week in the rain is a pain in the ass.
It's all fine until you have to schlep to a gallery in Chelsea, which seems to be happening in the middle of every day. The increasingly sprawling geography of the show schedule loses a lot of charm even in a drizzle.
We've also started to drop shows. Sorry, Cynthia Steffe. We think you are swell, but 9 AM after Fashion's Night Out was more than we could handle, so we began our day at Yigal Azrouël.  The handsome designer has been getting the wrong kind of press ever since his last show in a flap with his former PR firm and the ex-Governor's whore. Then came Katie Lee Joel. Who can remember the clothes?
It's too bad because he sent out another strong collection that remixed his signature rough-edged style with shorter, more body conscious silhouettes. Azrouël mixed his menswear line in the show as well, and aside from a few pieces that verged on pajamas, it looked wearable and smart. Since there were no uninvited quasi-celebrities this season, perhaps things will go better for him. We sat behind Entourage's Emanuelle Chriqui who wore draped leopard print, and we would love to know what was in the "Gift Box" on the seats of the first two rows.
Next it was on to Twinkle, where designer Wenlan Chia offered clever new twists on her inventive knits and prints. One pattern distinctly recalled a Uniqlo shopping bag with a Pac Man pattern, which could be taken the wrong way by someone who doesn't know how we feel about Uniqlo. Here, Reshma Shetty from "Royal Pains" and a second string Gossip Girl passed for big celebrities. Also, there was a Real Housewife, because it's not a fashion show without one of those gals tenaciously riding her fame for however long it lasts.
After a break it was back to the Big Tent at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for Monarchy (which is apparently now known as Monarchy by Eric Kim). Honestly, this collection flummoxes us. It seems like a nice, solid contemporary line which is not really knock-em-dead runway fare in our book. Clearly the cheers from the audience prove otherwise, and the label, which seems to have survived the Hartmarx bankruptcy turmoil, managed to land a next generation 90210-er (Annalynne McCord) a Twilighter (Kellan Lutz), a "True Blood" star (Rutina Wesley), a Hero (James Kyson Lee) and a shrill former Supermodel (Janice Dickinson) to add glamor to the proceedings.
We finally broke out of the Contemporary box clear across town at Loden Dager in West Chelsea. Once we finally got there, the airy gallery space made for a delightful setting, and since we barely arrived in time, we snagged a front row seat. Never mind that there were actually only two rows. Here's hoping that the Times' Guy Trebay skips more shows. This season, the guys have taken a few steps away from their signature classics in favor of some computer prints, bright colors and shiny nylon windbreaker fabrics. If it didn't always work, we can give the Loden Dager team credit for sensing that the current craze for hyper-authentic, vintage style menswear may be cresting, and it's time to look ahead to new things, even if back buttoning Bermuda shorts may be a roundabout path to the future. And yes, that's actor Anthony Edwards below in the front row.
With a extra hour until our next event, we found ourselves killing time at Jeffrey, where we ran into our great friend Kanye West. Okay, we're not really friends, and we only almost bumped into him, but we were there in the same place at the same time, which is all that matters. We can report that West shops in a surprisingly low-key, entourage-free manner. Also his hair is now etched in a geometric, Keith Haring-ish pattern.