The Shophound

ALEXANDRA JACOBS GOES SHOPPING: Designer Renewal Edition

This week's Thursday Styles features a visit to the newly rejuvenated Salvatore Ferragamo* flagship boutique on Fifth Avenue by Critical Shopper Alexandra Jacobs. The longstanding boutique has just emerged from a timely renovation, and jacobs spends a good deal of column inches recounting the oft-told story of Ferragamo's many innovations (wedges, platforms, engineered stilettos, etc.), celebrity clientele (Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Eva Braun?) and the brand's eventual descent, after its namesake's 1960 death, from fashion leader to comfortable, family owned middle of the road luxury cash cow where grandma got her shoes (Ferragamo is literally where The Shophound's grandma got her shoes).

But then, in the past year, new design leadership has vaulted Ferragamo back into the editorial spotlight, and so a refresh of its main retail showcase was in order. Our shopper finds herself in a store that is also part brand museum, but it is in the dressing room where she discovers that part of the brand's resurgence may be due to combining improved styling with the more forgiving fit of a collection that, in the past, has been aimed at a more conservative customer.

“Small is the only one we have,” he said of the pants, sounding genuinely sorrowful.
That was O.K., as Ferragamo’s clothes are cut with generosity, sometimes even outright forgiveness. Navy sailor slacks had fake buttons on the front, ties up the back and the kind of side slit and roomy seat one might see at Ann Taylor.

It's a strategy some designers might take note of to keep their clothes off the clearance racks.

Critical Shopper: A Transporting Trill of ‘Amore’ By Alexandra Jacobs (NYTimes)
Salvatore Ferragamo 655 Fifth Avenue at 52nd Street, Midtown

*Full Disclosure: The Shophound once spent a couple of years happily working on one of Salvatore Ferragamo's selling floors.

HUMAN RESOURCES: Bergdorf Goodman Gets A New Boss

As a customer, you might not have known that Bergdorf Goodman has been without a president for about two years, as its previous chief, Jim Gold, has been overseeing the store from Dallas as president of specialty retail for the Neiman Marcus Group, the store's parent. Yesterday, however the company admitted that Bergdorf's really needs a more hands-on leader, so it named Joshua Schulman the store's president (pictured at left). It marks the first time that Bergdorf Goodman has been led by an executive whose experience comes from the wholesale side of the business. Schulman, whose most recent position was as CEO of Jimmy Choo lacks the traditional merchandising background one would expect from a retail CEO, but has decades of experience working with Bergdorf's as an executive with luxury brands like Jimmy Choo, Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, where he was worldwide director of women’s ready-to-wear. It was there, ironically, where he oversaw the removal of Gucci women's apparel from Bergdorf's in 1999 when the label was displeased with the way the line was being presented in the store (By the way, having watched this happen with our own eyes, we can report it as a smart move on his part at the time. Gucci apparel returned after a hiatus of several seasons with a much larger department for women on the second floor).

Any gaps in the new President's experience will be covered by Gold, to whom he will report. “Although I’ve been a vendor, I’m not coming in with any preconceived notions. I will be working on a new strategic plan,” Schulman tells WWD, who suggests that strengthening management at Bergdorf's may be part of a larger strategy of preparing Neiman Marcus Group for a public offering.

Joshua Schulman Heading to Bergdorf Goodman by David Moin (WWD)

ALEXANDRA JACOBS GOES SHOPING:

In this week's Thursday Styles, Alexandra Jacobs returns to the Critical Shopper post to give her take on Fifth Avenue's brand new Zara flagship. Curiously, she mostly ignores the store's surprisingly rich interior design and focuses on the Spanish-based fast fashion chain's head-spinning knockoff skills. To her, the store is full of the ghosts of other designers' collections as she and a "statuesque blond shopping companion" traipse through the place playing trend detective.

...red pump with tailfin à la Prada, yup; Pierre Hardyesque contrast clutch, sure; Navajo print in sequins on a miniskirt, mm-hmm.

And yet, despite the store's being a cornucopia of Spring trends, Jacobs finds fault with nearly everything she tries, with either fit or fabric falling short. When she finally finds something she likes, it's the lengthy checkout line that stymies an actual purchase. It seems that there's no winning for Jacobs at Zara. Is it really that the store is dissatisfying, or, like most people who have steeped themselves in fashion, has Jacobs just become immune to the charms of the knockoff in favor of the precious"real thing"?

In fairness to Jacobs' critical cred, we would kind of like to see what the other half of the Critical team, Jon Caramanica, would make of the store's expansive men's floor upstairs. It's designed with effect of a sleek designer megastore in mind as opposed to H&M's trend-happy cacophony a block or so downtown (it has the same gray marble slab floor as Barneys' new women's main floor -make of that what you will), the men's floor seemed less hectic to us and yet remarkably skillful at interpreting current trends without going overboard. Perhaps it's time for both shoppers to team up when they review a store for both men and women so we can get the full picture?

Critical Shopper: Where Have I Seen You Before? By Alexandra Jacobs (NYTimes)
Zara 666 Fifth Avenue at 52nd Street, Midtown

COLLABORATION ANTICIPATION: Children's Line A Hit For UU uniqlo undercover

The Shophound stopped by UNIQLO's Fifth Avenue flagship today around noon to finally get an in-person look at UU Uniqlo Undercover by Jun Takahashi, the chain's latest collaboration. As we had guessed, there wasn't a huge crowd by the time we got there, but we quizzed a helpful staffer who told us that evn though Undercover and Jun Takahashi are ot as well known in the U.S., there was still a relatively small but enthusiastic crowd waiting this morning to get first crack at the line's debut. She told us that the children's items had been especially popular, and that the kid's version of the faux leather and knit motorcycle-style Rider's Jacket had already sold out.

To celebrate the launch, the Fifth Avenue store will be offering free family portraits today, Friday the 16th from 4 PM to 6 PM and tomorrow, Saturday the 17th from 11 AM to 1 PM as well as an opportunity for kids to design and clothe their own bear in the store's create-a-bear workshop while supplies last.

As for the grown-ups, the collection is very sporty and utilitarian with whimsical touches. There are many more items available in the store than you will see on the website. There are great, trendy striped knits and and printed hoodies for men and women with plenty of useful pockets ant technical details. There are also more UU logos visible on the products than we would have expected, which may or may not disappoint some customers who are used to insignia-free items at Uniqlo. There is also an abundance of Keffiyeh style scarves (some are visible in the displays pictured above and below) in multiple colorways which might not sit well politically with some New York area customers given that particular garment's political significance as a pro-Palestinian symbol. Other prominent stores have run into problems with these styles in the past. We'll be interested to see if there's any backlash on that item.

And then there is the size issue.
Again.
Oh, we thought we were done with this complaint when last Fall's +J deliveries finally included a full range of sizes for that collection including the long-missed XLs and larger pant and skirt sizes. Unfortunately, with UU, the chain seems to have reverted back to its implied "No Fatties" policy with no tops for men or women larger than a fairly narrowly cut "L", and no pants larger than a 33 for men or 28 for women. Our sales staffer noted that there were a few larger pieces included in the initial shipments, but that they were swiftly purchased by early shoppers including guests at a press event yesterday (Hey! Where were we for that?). We even checked the 34th Street location to see if they perhaps received more sizes, but found a smaller selection of the collections there on the main floor. We haven't checked SoHo, but it looks like the biggest presentation of the line is at the Fifth Avenue location. Our staffer promised that there would be replenishment shipments in the coming weeks, but couldn't promise that they would include larger sizes. There will, however, be a second shipment of new styles coming in April, so if you are a slender fan of casual, Japanese-style sportswear, there's more in store for you.

UU Uniqlo Undercover (Official Site)

COLLABORATION ANTICIPATION: UU uniqlo undercover Launches In Stores Today

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Today, Uniqlo's latest major designer collaboration, UU Uniqlo Undercover by Jun Takahashi is unleashed upon the shopping masses. The Shophound was at the Japanese chain's Fifth Avenue flagship yesterday while the store staff was setting up a surprisingly elaborate visual presentation for the launch, giving us an impromptu preview of the collection. Most of the section was closed off, but we were still able to get a good look at today's set-up. While previous collab +J made do with sheer pipe-and-drape at the SoHo store. Uniqlo's visual team has concocted something completely different for UU. While we were expecting to see the new line set up on the store's mezzanine level that was previously set aside for +J, the new collection will be ensconced in a large portion of the store's expansive top floor. In addition, the giant display case at the top of the escalators has been set up with various vignettes featuring an abundance of props and carpets including Tiffany-style lamps and Victorian furniture —a stark contrast to the store's signature minimalist design scheme.

With Jun Takahashi's Undercover brand more of a cult label that than Jil Sander, we are not sure exactly what kind of crowds to expect at the city's three Uniqlo stores. They probably won't rival the iPad lines, but then, what could? We will have more to report lat3er today when we see the line up close, so stay tuned.

UU Uniqlo Undercover (Official Site)
Previously:
UU uniqlo undercover To Hit Stores On March 16
Here Are Some New Lookbook Shots Of UNIQLO's UU uniqlo undercover

COLLABORATION ANTICIPATION: DVF For Kids Selling Out At The Gap While Fashion Star Is A Hit At H&M

Our friends at RACKED have spent some time on Fifth Avenue in Midtown this morning so we don't have to. Clearly it was the launch of Gap's Diane von Furstenberg children's line that brought them to the neighborhood, but while there they checked in at H&M where the first batch of winning designs from NBC's new show Fashion Star went on sale. Apparently, the Cutout dress by Sarah Parrott is sold out in both colors (online as well, but the men's navy jacket by Nzimiro is still available for all. They also report that while every trace of Marni's H&M line for women is gone, gone, gone, upstairs, there is still a selection of several items from the men's line, which in our ever so humble opinion, was one of the chain's best men's collaborations to date.

But back to the Gap, where the DVF line is reported to be gone by the end of the day. Racked recommends shopping online or checking the website for other, lower profile locations, but they warn that this collection really is for little ones only. Not even the most petite fully grown woman should attempt squeezing into any of the trendier items for some bargain-rate DVF collab style.

DVF For Gap Kids Is Going Fast on Fifth Avenue, H&M on Fifth Avenue Goes Fashion Star Crazy, H&M Fifth Avenue Is Still Haunted by the Ghost of Marni (RACKED)

AND WE'RE DONE: Say Goodbye To ESPRIT

About 5 years ago, Esprit tried to stage its own little '80s revival by opening a suite of prominent stores in Manhattan in efforts to revive its fortunes in its original home country of the U.S. Unfortunately, despite the brand's continuing success in overseas, it didn't do too well at enticing American shoppers of what had once been an exciting, groundbreaking brand a quarter of a decade earlier. A few months ago, Esprit announced that it would be closing its remaining New York stores with the exception of its Rockefeller Center flagship. Though the units at Columbus Circle and on 34th street would be gone, the one store would remain in hopes of eventually igniting interest. The New York Post is reporting, however, that the Fifth Avenue store will be shuttered as well, as soon as this week. So, goodbye Esprit. You... well, you probably won't be missed that much, but it was a good try. This leaves a sizable 14,000 square feet for the taking on a prime stretch of Fifth Avenue, so keep an eye on that spot for what will hopefully be a terrific store, but will definitely be one with deep pockets.

Rock Center Esprit no more (NYPost)
Previously:
The '80s are Back: Esprit Coming to Rockefeller Center (4.27.2007)

ACCESSORY UPGRADE: Ghurka Shows Off A New Look In A New Store

About six months ago, The Shophound reported that Ghurka, the classic luggage and accessory brand, would be escaping it's way-off-the-beaten-path location in the Plaza Hotel basement for a new store on 59th Street just off Fifth Avenue in the Sherry Netherland building. The folks at Ghurka were quick to let me know that the Plaza store would, in fact, remain open, but now, after a change in ownership the brand has shed some of the trappings of its previous, more commercial and corporate parent, that other store is but a memory.

This is not just an elaborate way to say, "We told you so," but to illustrate that a brand that has been well-liked but sort of predictable is undergoing a refreshing evolution —the first stages of which can be seen in the new store. This past September, Accessory Network Group, the handbag giant which had owned Ghurka since 2003, sold it to an independent group called Brightwork Brand Holdings Corp. which made the label its first acquisition. Though the products currently in store don't fully represent the new design team (it will be debuting a revamp next week at the Project show) the new store, which quietly opened for the Holiday season, represents a smaller, more individually focused attitude aimed at burnishing the brand's image. Classic Ghurka styles are already being presented in new colors and fabrics like tweedy checks and plaids along with the saddle colored leather that is the label's signature. The store is also mixing in a few other independent vendors like Pendleton blankets to update its offerings as the company makes arrangements to move all of its production back to the U.S. since its previous owner outsourced some manufacturing overseas.

We always like to see a label re-invent itself, but in this case, it's good to see an admired brand looking forward by getting back to its roots. We will be keeping an eye out for what it has in store next week, but in the meantime, Ghurka's return to the street level will remind you of its classic appeal.

Ghurka 781 Fifth Avenue at 59th Street, Midtown
Previously:
Ghurka Escapes The Plaza And Heads For Fifth Avenue (7.26.11)

FOOTWEAR FRENZY: Saks' Shoe Sale Shuts Down The Floor

Saks Fifth Avenue has been happy to trumpet its enormous shoe floor with its own zip code, but they may not be as pleased with the news that its shoe sale got so out of control yesterday that they had to shut down the floor before things got really ugly.

The normally refined department store repeated its day-after-Christmas sale doorbuster sale of years past in which all sale items in the store were reduced from 40% to 60% off only between 8 AM and 12 Noon. Naturally, this can lead to all kinds of competitive shopping, but reportedly, customers started panicking in the already hectic shoe department at about 11:30 when they discovered that by the time they made it to the register after waiting in the long line, it would be after 12 PM, and they would no longer be eligible for the extra discount. Saks' in-store security cleared the floor before things could get dangerous leaving hordes of would-be sale customers disgruntled o say the very least.

And this is why The Shophound stayed home on Boxing Day and watched all the episodes of "Homeland" that were filling up our DVR. After all, is it really worth losing your dignity over an extra discount on markdown Louboutins?
All right, you don't have to answer that.

60%-off shoe sale leads to melee at Saks Fifth Avenue: witnesses (NY Daily News via RACKED)

THE WINDOW WATCHER: Tiffany's Builds A Christmas Carousel

Fittingly, Tiffany & Co. has always been a model elegant understatement when it comes to window display, even at Christmas when its neighbors on Fifth Avenue pull out all the stops. Partly, this has to do with the store's little windows, meant to create little jewel boxes of wonder outside the imposing jewelry store.

Not this year.

The windows are still the same size, with displays that are as fanciful and masterfully composed as ever, but around the windows on Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, Tiffany has added what appears to be sections of an antique carousel in gold and signature Tiffany Blue.  Inside the store, the famous main floor is festooned with more traditional garlands and tinsel, but the store's visual team has added a gilded archway at the main entrance that echoes the scrolls and curlicues of the outside decorations. It's a striking look, especially if you are used to the store's usual, less flashy style, but, hey, it's the Holidays. Why not have a little bit of fun?