The Shophound

SAMPLE SALE PREVIEW: The New And Improved GANT Sample Sale Starts Today

To be honest, The Shophound was a little bit concerned that the GANT Sample Sale was going to happen while we were gallivanting around Los Angeles last week, but we were happy to discover that the sale would be taking place the week after we came home ...and spent all our money on vacation. Oh well... It opens to the public today.

This seasonal sale has become such a sleeper hit, that the folks at Gant have finally moved it out of their midtown showroom and into the popular facility at 260 Fifth Avenue that most seasoned New York sample sale shoppers will be very familiar with. Yesterday, there was a mid-afternoon VIP preview, but the folks at Gant kindly asked us not to encourage non-invitees to try their luck at early entry because there was, in fact a strictly enforced guest list, this season. At a quarter to three, there was already a sizable line outside in the light drizzle (above), but we got inside quickly ince the doors opened at three o'clock, and here's what we can report about the new version of the sale —mostly pros, and a few cons.

PRICES: You can click on the list below to see that the prices are a little bit higher than in past seasons (boo!) but not by much (yay!). The days of all pants for $20 each may be over, but $35 is still a pretty damn good deal for pants that start at around $100 and go up from there at retail. You can still take home a pretty sizable haul for a fraction of what you would pay at full price. And there are some steals to be had, particularly in accessories like belts for $20 including handmade pieces from Sweden's Tärnsjö Tannery that retail for $175.
Click below to enlarge as clear a shot as we could get of the price list.

SAMPLES: As regular shoppers of this sale know, the sale really consists almost entirely of vast amounts of showroom samples. That has usually meant only trimly cut Mediums from the Rugger and Gant by Michael Bastian labels and more generous fitting Mediums and Larges from the main Gant brand. This season, however, shopper will find a bit more STOCK (yay!) from previous seasons. That means there are a few styles in full size runs, particularly in outerwear from Rugger and Bastian. If you are a Small, XL or even an XXL who has been shut out of previous Gant sales, you may be in luck.

SELECTION: It's the same as you have come to remember: a TON of shirts, sweaters and pants. This time, thanks to more space, almost everything is hanging on racks, and there are now attendants behind some of the tables to help you rummage through cartons of accessories and boxes of shoes. Somehow, this makes it both easier and harder to shop, since sizes were almost instantly jumbled, and some of the racks were so crammed that it was difficult to see the merchandise, so have some patience, and hone your sixth shopping sense. The arrangement is somewhat random as well, with some jackets over here and some over there, etc. Thoroughness counts here, especially since all three labels are mixed in together.

All things considered, this is the Gant sale you have come to know and love, just in a more convenient location with more space. Will prices get slashed to Walmart levels on the last day? Are they ever not? Just remember, this season the last day is on Saturday instead of Friday, but if you had your heart set on grabbing a pair of the Michael Bastian Watermelon Camo cut-off cargo shorts, don't get your hopes up. We got what we're pretty sure was the only pair.
Sorry.

The GANT Sample Sale through May 19th at 260 Fifth Avenue between 28th & 29th Streets, Midtown.
Tuesday through Friday: 10 AM - 8PM
Saturday: 10 AM - 5 PM

JON CARAMANICA GOES SHOPPING: French Convenience Edition

Today's Thursday Styles features Critical Shopper Jon Caramanica's visit to New York's latest French import, Maison Kitsuné in the NoMad Hotel on the edge of what he charitably calls "the Perfume District" (or what we like to call the Cheap Wig, Perfume and Sunglasses District). Our shopper is unexpectedly enchanted by the brand's refined, super slim versions of classic men's clothes, and sees it as the follow up to that other French favorite A.P.C., which has been sullied by having the nerve to expand its retail network and wholesale its products to other stores to meet demand (Kitsuné is also sold at Barneys and online through Mr. Porter as well as in other boutiques in New York).

In the end, he has given into more than just the allure of the clothes,

Taken all together, this adds up to a uniform. And the Kitsuné concept of uniformity encompasses more than the body. More than a clothing company, it’s a full-service lifestyle-improvement enterprise: clothes for the body, music for the ears (the “Kitsuné America” compilation was just released), maybe someday low-key inspirational speeches for the mind, accompanied by cheek kisses and some grimy hair gel.

Sounds like a cult. Tread lightly.

Critical Shopper: Invisibility, All in Good Taste By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
Maison Kitsuné 1170 Broadway at 28th Street, Madison Square-ish

COLLABORATION ANTICIPATION: Altuzarra Kicks Off J.Crew's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Team Ups

We could probably write about a different designer collaboration every day here at The Shophound, but Joseph Atuzarra's capsule collection for J.Crew, which will be available to order tomorrow and appear in the lower Fifth Avenue mega-flagship on Monday, is of a particular sort. It isn't an initiative between the designer and the retailer to create interest, but a prize awarded by the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to the winner and runners up of its annual grant. This year it is winner Altuzzara who gets the honor of kicking off the series with a French Riviera-inspired collection that adapts his own sensibility to J.Crew's sporty offerings instead of simply replicating his own label at a lower price point. “J. Crew stands for that very American idea of prep, but I thought it would be cool to do something inspired by Bardot and St.-Tropez,” the designer tells The New York Times. “It’s very Jean Seberg. There’s the idea of Breton sweaters, denim skirts and what you would wear on the French Riviera.”

The seven piece collection will include gingham dresses and sailor striped sweaters. Runners up Pamela Love and Creatures of the Wind will have similar collections available in June and July, repeating last year's offerings from Billy Reid, Prabal Gurung and Eddie Borgo. Though Antonio Azzuolo and Carlos Campos were among the finalists for the prize coveted among young designers, there were no menswear designers in the final three. To make up for this, The Gap, which once hosted collections from the CFDA/Vogue winners, will be presenting its own capsules from GQ's Best New Menswear Designer finalists later this year.

So really, between these lines and regular offerings from Macy's, H&M, Uniqlo and any number of other stores and brands, at this point, a person could dress him or herself entirely in designer collaborations all the time. Doesn't sound like a bad thing to us.

UPDATE:
The Cut has a slide show of the entire Altuzarra capsule collection. Click HERE.

Front Row: The Preppy Sets Sail in the Riviera By Eric Wilson (NYTimes)
The Latest J.Crew CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Collaborations—and How to Wear Them (Vogue.com)
Previously:
GQ's Best New Menswear Designers For 2012 Will Collaborate With The Gap (2/23/2012)

FRENCH IMPORTS: Insert Maison Kitsuné Here

It's still in a strangely grungy part of town on the edge of the Floral and Garment Districts, but that won't stop the pricey French preppy emporium Maison Kitsuné from planting its first U.S. outpost on the corner of Broadway and 28th Street. It will be the featured store in the NoMad Hotel, and despite the building's understated elegance, the neighborhood around it is still very much "In Transition". Yes, there is Opening Ceremony in the Ace Hotel just a block north (which, not surprisingly, carries Kitsuné), as well as a few upscale lounges and the tempting comfort food extravaganza that is Hill Country Chicken a couple of blocks away, but there are still several off-price perfume stores and other similarly seedy retail establishments remaining in the neighborhood reminding passersby that it is still something of a no-man's land. The question is, will the dual powers of NoMad and Ace Hotels and Opening Ceremony with Maison Kitsuné be enough to turn the neighborhood into the next Meatpacking District? And will people bitch and moan the whole time while the neighborhood is being turned into the next Meatpacking District? Probably, because that is what's happening, and that's what people do. If this grand real estate plan works out, those unloved perfume and tchotchke stores will inevitably be gone sooner or later, making way for more appropriate neighbors for the charming shop that Kitsuné is building (see renderings below).

If you don't think that Kitsuné will be sufficiently luxe enough to accelerate the shift in the neighborhood's character, consider that GQ told us this week that the venerable Parisian men's shoe brand J.M Weston will be making a special version of their classic 180 Loafer in a mix of smooth and pebble grain leathers exclusively for the store. Well, if a few dusty off-brand shops have to bite the dust, we'll all have to look the other way. There are some more sweet shoes to be had.

Exclusive Sneak Peek: Maison Kitsune Comes to New York (The GQ Eye)
Kitsuné Journal (Official Site)

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JON CARAMANICA GOES SHOPPING: Almost Ready For Prime Time Edition

In this week's Thursday Styles, Critical Shopper Jon Caramanica checks out the newly relocated Rothmans which has moved itself to a more spacious location just a few steps up Park Avenue South. The goal of the relocation was not only to escape the store's cluttery longtime home, but also to broaden the retailer's scope by showcasing more sportswear and an upgraded fashion image. Our shopper seems to think that Rothmans's has only partly succeeded.

The store's suit selection remains extensive, if not particularly adventurous, but Caramanica feels that the store lacks expertise in its more contemporary sportswear selections. He is only marginally impressed by a new, exclusive line from Duckie Brown, and the other brands seem poorly curated, including a disappointing appearance by dodgy off-price store mainstay, Bugatchi Uomo.

Here, though, it was represented by several shirts, many in clashing agglomerations of vertical stripes ($145) that recalled the outfits I would see, during my time in late-’90s London, on City bankers out for a certainly loutish and potentially violent night of pints and crisps. (Or, once the contrasting inner cuff revealed itself, it evoked the five-alarm shirts worn by Cameron on “Modern Family.”)

Apparently, a taste intervention is needed at the new Rothmans if it wants to follow in the footsteps of Barneys, that other humble downtown suit-seller that transformed itself into a paragon of fashion. This place sounds like it has a long way to go, but Our shopper manages to find a pair of Ted Baker pants to keep his visit from being a total loss. Hey, if you write about them, are they a tax deduction?

Critical Shopper: Seeking an Elixir of Youth By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
Rothmans 222 Park Avenue South at 18th Street

JON CARAMANICA GOES SHOPPING: Polo Shirt Protocol Edition

In this week's Thursday Styles, Critical Shopper Jon Caramanica takes on the newest incarnation of Brooks Brothers on Broadway near Union Square. He frames his observations around the question of the popped collar and what exactly it means, an age-old controversy among wearers of polo shirts that is unlikely to be settled with one more newspaper article. This device is presented as a message from a "Bro" in a sartorial quandary. As usual, he entirely ignores the women's half of the store, which, in this case, may be appropriate, since the retailer has yet to define a stronger image for that part of its business.

Caramanica is divided, once again by the store which collects the most casual of Brooks Brothers lines in a college-themed outlet. He appreciates care taken in creating the store's ambiance, but notes that as much as he likes some of the offerings, not all of the merchandise has been developed enough to match its setting.

...plenty of Brooks Brothers styles make Gant Rugger look like Givenchy. Pastel sweaters with ribbed V-necks ($79.50) had a faint sheen (though the cashmere ones were fine). At the sight of the muted plaid scarves ($98), my shopping companion said, “This is the scarf you buy if you want to look like one of those ‘Nutcracker’ toys.”

Ultimately, he concludes that, "Unifying Brooks Brothers’ many collections proves to be not as seamless or meaningful a strategy as it sounds."

Critical Shopper: Welcome to Brooks Brothers, a k a Fraternity Row By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
Brooks Brothers Flatiron Shop 901 Broadway at 20th Street, Flatiron District
Previously:

NOW OPEN: Brooks Brothers' Flatiron Shop Courts The Collegiates

It would be the worst possible timing for a store to open its doors just as its building is about to be covered in scaffolding, but that's what has happened to Brooks Brothers' Flatiron Shop, its seventh Manhattan store, which opened its doors over the weekend at Broadway and 20th Street. We peeked inside last week as the store's finishing touches were being put in place, and the store has been made over to resemble a posh fraternity. Think more Porcellian Club than Animal House.

Upstairs is all dark polished wood with a register counter that begs to be stocked with scotch and bourbon. The upstairs loft has been turned over to serious lounging with a giant television, while the basement is where the party would happen with a foosball table, arcade games and that retro-amusement du jour, a photo booth. All that's missing  are a few red Solo cups tossed around from last night's kegger. Of course, all this Ralph Lauren-level art direction is meant to serve the merchandise which is mostly edited to focus on the brand's younger "collegiate" label, identified by its enlarged, slightly exaggerated version of Brooks Brothers' classic tag. Women's is on one side of the store, but Men's gets the emphasis with the fixtured wall  and the general old-boy atmosphere. While the merchandise looks like typical Brooks Brothers fare, the khakis are the narrowest cut, and most of the shirts are slim or extra slim cuts rather than the voluminous oxford button-downs that Brooks is famous for. Even a classic gray suit is a trim, Mad Men-esque version instead of the classic Brooks sack.

So it's preppy with a hipster silhouette at this new boutique-sized Brooks Brothers, so clearly meant to be seen as a college shop that it is even stocking sweaters and ties festooned with the NYU insignia in place of the brand's signature golden fleece. The bright-eyed, perfectly styled staff seems plucked form the freshman class as well, and what they may lack in seasoned experience they more than make up in eager loquaciousness. Eventually, they'll get the balance right. While it might look the store is aiming to compete with J. Crew and Banana Republic a block to the west, it seems to be more clearly taking a shot at Ralph Lauren's Rugby just on the other side of Union Square. After 44 years or so of Ralph Lauren borrowing liberally from Brooks Brothers, it's only fair that they take a little back for themselves... as long as they can just get rid of that damn scaffolding.

Brooks Brothers Flatiron Shop 901 Broadway at 20th Street, Flatiron District

NAKED MANNEQUIN ALERT: Brooks Brothers Stocks The Shelves In Its Flatiron Shop

The wraps are off of Brooks Brothers' latest effort on Broadway at 20th Street, but someone forgot to close the curtains! The poor, headless mannequins in the windows are cruelly exposed without their clothes, but passersby can get a good look into the new Flatiron Shop the legendary retailer is about to open. The store is expected to showcase Brooks Brothers' younger, more collegiate lines, taking aim at nearby competitors like J.Crew and Ralph Lauren's Rugby. Taking over the space from Energie/Miss Sixty, the Brooks team has stripped the interior of its ersatz mid-century decor, and installed a design scheme that is better befits the heritage of a building that once housed Lord & Taylor. Peeking through the open door, The Shophound saw dark wood shelves and brass chandeliers giving the space an elegant library/lounge look. The loft at the back of the store remains, and it looks like the lower level will be utilized as selling space as well. Inside, workers clad in denim, oxford button downs and khakis scurried to prepare the interior, so we expect the public to get a full look inside any day now.

Previously:
Site Specific: Brooks Brothers Headed To Flatiron District By Fall (4.20.2011)

CHAIN GANG: Joe Fresh Has A Familiar Feeling

The Shophound couldn't walk around the newly opened Joe Fresh store on Lower Fifth Avenue without thinking about a couple of other chains that have been on our mind lately. The first is obviously UNIQLO. Canadian entrepreneur Joe Mimran has brought his newest chain to New York City on the heels of that Japanese chain's extravagant launching of two enormous flagship stores, and though his shop on Fifth Avenue at 16th Street is far more modest, when we got a look at the bright minimalist interior and stacks of affordable basics, the comparison seemed obvious. Mimran has not yet figured out how to replicate Uniqlo's quality level, but if he can achieve the same economies of scale, he could give them a run for their money. While Uniqlo has been concentrating on large international flagships, Mimran has already opened several of the kind of smaller scale stores that Uniqlo ultimately wants to expand in the U.S. with in the suburbs ringing New York City, and is said to be aggressively looking for more. He may beat the more cautious and picky Japanese chain at finding the best locations.

The other chain that obviously came to mind was Club Monaco, which Mimran started during the 1980s and opened its first U.S. store in the mid-1990s just a few blocks up Fifth Avenue from the new Joe Fresh. Mimran's newer chain shows the same taste for the carefully chosen trendy item that we used to see at Club Monaco before it was purchased by Ralph Lauren several years ago. If Mimran can maintain his finely honed trend radar, and people can get over the fact that the Joe Fresh label was launched in Canadian grocery stores, then it's more than likely that we will see more of this chain popping up all over the place very soon, giving some of the other fast-fashion chains another competitor to keep an eye on.

Joe Fresh now open at 110 Fifth Avenue at 16th Street, Flatiron District

JON CARAMANICA GOES SHOPPING: Scandinavian Sensory Overload Edition

The Tmes' Critical Shopper column threw us a bit of a curve today by assigning Jon Caramanica to review the new Marimekko flagship store instead of the other chick. That is not to say that he does not have some pointed things to say about the store. After all, lately he has been emphasizing the 'critical' side of 'Critical Shopper'. While the ongoing craze for retro style made a revival of Marimekko's bold, graphic prints an inevitability, Caramanica is not convinced, and to him, the whole enterprise looks dated. He sees it as a glorified fabric store, best suited for the D.I.Y. crowd, and it is the clothing offerings that seem to irk him the most.

Almost everything here begged for a belt or a rope or a handful of safety pins, even the plain but charming pieces done in Breton stripes, especially the maxidress dangling near the back of the store like a challenge, one that had been (willingly?) accepted by a saleswoman, who cinched it with a wide belt, augmented with strappy clog sandals: the chicest prison outfit possible.

Epic run-on sentences aside, this week's column proves that Caramanica is wittier when unimpressed, and he lets loose more than a few zingers, so we are all for sending him outside of his menswear-centric comfort zone. We're not really sure that Marimekko is as bad as all that, but we're happy to let him go to town on them.

Critical Shopper | Marimekko: An Outspoken Elder, Very Now By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
Marimekko 200 Fifth Avenue at 24th Street, Flatiron District