The Shophound

FIRST LOOKS: Here Are The Official Photos Of Saint Laurent's Soho Store

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The Saint Laurent boutique on Greene Street in SoHo is finally open for all to visit. As we predicted, the label has released official photos of the store, and in typically peculiar Hedi Slimane style, the images depict the store in black and white and entirely devoid of merchandise.
Yeah, weird —especially since the space really comes to life when it is stocked, but then perhaps he just wants it to be seen as undead. Who can say?

At any rate, in the gallery above, you can see the soaring ceiling, a hint of the dressing room skylights, the original painted, pressed tin ceiling and the dramatic marble walls. As we saw earlier, the store is currently featuring the label's basic "Permanent" collections for men and women, along with Fall 2013 samples for pre-order. It will reportedly be the first door to receive the Pre-Fall collection sometime this month

Previously:
First Look: A Preview Inside The Finished Saint Laurent Boutique In SoHo

FIRST LOOK: A Preview Inside The Finished Saint Laurent Boutique In SoHo

It doesn't officially open until Tuesday when the window coverings will come down, but The Shophound got inside the long-awaited and much-discussed Saint Laurent boutique in SoHo over the weekend, and whatever anyone might think about the Hedi Slimane version of the brand, we can confidently say that it is one fabulous boutique.

While we would love our readers to be under the impression that we were specially invited for a preview, the store actually had a "soft" opening over the weekend (while it awaited "full, final approval", we were told), and though the windows were still covered, a doorman was happily admitting pretty much any schmo who wanted to come inside. And also us. Here's what we learned:

• There's a good reason why the store was moved from Mercer Street to its current space on Greene Street.
  It's simply a better space. It's not surprising that parent company Kering (formerly PPR) would invest the resources to move the store's site for one of it's flagship luxury labels. It's worth it. The same design elements in Slimane's store concept would have looked perfectly impressive in the previous, smaller, lower-ceilinged shop (which will now be converted to a men's store for Kering's other celebrated couture house, Balenciaga), but they look much more striking in a bigger space. You will see the same white silk marble, square chrome racks and fixtures in Saint Laurent shop-in-shops at Bergdorf's and Saks, but they really sing on a grander scale here, where one entire wall is fitted with marble paneling and shelves running its entire length containing meticulously arranged shoes and accessories. One monumental double rack for women's clothes, another for men's and two tall glass cases for more accessories round out the rest of the fixtures leaving lots of airy space. It is all very crisp and pristine which would be intimidating if it weren't the case that...
• The staff is lovely and welcoming.
  As most New York shoppers know, this is not always what one finds in the city's designer boutiques. When we said that any schmo was welcome in the store, we might have been suggesting that perhaps on an unseasonably hot and humid 85° Sunday afternoon, The Shophound might not have been looking our most elegant. Nobody seemed to care, and the salespeople were personable and engaging, casually joking about how long it took to finally get the store finished and open, and swiftly offering us water. As we turned to head out, one staffer stopped us to make sure we had seen that...
• The dressing rooms are remarkable.
  Spacious and skylit, they are fitted with a sleek gray velvet covered chair and seven or eight-way mirrors so you will be able to how everything looks from absolutely every angle —even if you may not want to. Also...
• It turns out that Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent collections look better in person than they do on the runway.
  And the store makes an excellent setting for them. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the merchandise is fully in yet. The racks were mostly filled with samples from the Fall 1023 collections to pre-reserve, but the shelves were well stocked with handbags and shoes, which is probably what they are expecting to sell more of anyway. Are $350 printed t-shirts going to save the brand? Time will tell, but we are guessing that the black $545 boat shoes with white soles are probably being copied (or, rightfully, copied back) at this very moment by Sperry Top-Sider, or at least they should be.

Unfortunately, it wasn't possible for us to get any sneaky photos of the new store. We added the images below from the YSL website to show a basic idea of the store's design elements, but they are from a different boutique. Photos will be taken in the next few days, and we will be sure to link to them as soon as they show up on line. We are guessing that, with this store finished, an even grander revamp is likely in the works soon for the 57th Saint Laurent Street flagship, of course, "soon" is a relative term these days at Saint Laurent with any number of twists along the way.

Saint Laurent Paris 80 Greene Street between Spring & Broome Streets, SoHo
Previously:
BOUTIQUE WATCH: Saint Laurent SoHo Getting Ready To Open Any Day Now

SAMPLE SALE PREVIEW: Excellent Summer Savings At The Shipley & Halmos Sale

There's a small but well chosen selection at the Shipley & Halmos men's sample sale starting this afternoon, and the prices are great. The Shophound climbed the stairs to the brand's SoHo showroom this morning to catch a preview of what's going to be available. There's a smattering of everything with a mix of Fall and Spring goods. You'll find great t-shirts and denim to wear now, and some classic knit pieces if are the sort who likes to stow away a great buy until next season. Prices start at about 60% off retail for sportswear, with even lower prices on shoes & accessories that run closer to 80% off (See the price list image in our gallery below). Sizes run toward the medium range, but if you are a fan of the label, then you should get there early. the sale runs through Saturday, but the best items will go fast.

Shipley & Halmos Sample Sale at 8 Greene Street (2nd floor) between Canal & Grand Streets, SoHo. See SALE ROLL at left for more details.

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BOUTIQUE WATCH: Saint Laurent SoHo Getting Ready To Open Any Day Now

It might not be making its reported May opening date, but the Saint Laurent boutique on Greene Street is thisclose to opening. The gold letters are above the door, and when The Shophound breezed by this morning we caught a glimpse of clothes going on racks through a briefly opened door —too brief, alas, to gather photographic proof, but you know we wouldn't make this up. It looks like the store might be open by this weekend if they're fast, and easily next weekend as long as they have enough new merchandise. Stay tuned!

Previously:
Sneak Peek: Peering Inside Saint Laurent's Greene Street Store

NOW OPEN: A Cool Reception At SoHo's Pas De Calais

What is The Shophound to make of SoHo's newest Japanese import, Pas de Calais, which opened last month at the corner of Broome and Wooster Street? The sleek, French-inspired sportswear label that deftly mixes contemporary Gallic style with innovative Japanese textiles has launched its first international store with a sleek interior that makes the most of the space's high ceilings and long, narrow footprint to create a modern setting for the label's collections. Why, then did the sales staff respond with such a lack of enthusiasm when The Shophound wandered through the door a couple of days ago? Were they tired after a long day? One would think that as we carefully examined nearly every item on the rack featuring the men's label, Sage de Crêt (relaxed and stylish with the inevitable Japanese fascination with military garb), someone might try to engage our attention or possibly tell us something about the store's brands which most people (including The Shophound) have never heard of. It's not that we expect to have our feet kissed every time we darken the doorstep of a retail establishment. In fact, we typically like to be left alone to explore on our own, but by the same token, we don't expect to be treated as if we aren't there at all while a nearby sales associate busies herself with what must have been some very important staring off into space. There is, at least, a modicum of warmth and acknowledgement one should reasonably expect from even marginal service. Finally, as we turned to leave, we heard an icy "Thank you for coming," in a tone that could easily be interpreted to mean, "you can leave now." When we dared to ask when the store opened, since we hadn't noticed it before, "A month," was the terse response. Well, goodbye then, Pas de Calais. Good luck to you.

Pas de Calais 482 Broome Street at Wooster Street, SoHo

JON CARAMANICA GOES SHOPPING: Almost Incognito Edition

In this week's Thursday Styles, Critical Shopper Jon Caramanica finally makes it to New York's latest menswear mecca, Carson Street Clothiers in SoHo. The Shophound visited the store about six weeks ago, when it opened, and we were expecting Caramanica's take on it shortly afterwards since the Critical Shoppers are usually quick to cover prominent new stores. It turns out that our shopper had to put it off only because his anonymity was compromised on his initial visit by one of the very #menswear "illuminati" whose collective tastes and opinions appear to have strongly shaped the store's aesthetic.

But he finally made it there and found it "so fully in character that it was as much a shopping experience as a series of perfectly planted vignettes, an off-off-Broadway production of a well-dressed life."

Like The Shophound, Caramanica seems ready to cynically marvel at what seems like a collection of style blogs brought to life, except that the store's so full of great stuff, neither he nor we could even attempt to resist it. From what we can gather, nobody else can either.

Critical Shopper: Relaxing Into Masculinity By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
Carson Street Clothiers 63 Crosby Street between Spring & Broome Streets, SoHo
Previously:
New Arrivals: Carson Street Clothiers Is SoHo's Most Perfectly Composed New Store

SNEAK PEEK: Peering Inside Saint Laurent's Greene Street Store

Don't we love it when careless construction crews leave the door open?
Over the weekend, The Shophound got an impromptu look inside the upcoming Saint Laurent boutique on Greene Street in SoHo —just by chance. It was only last week that the company actually confirmed the location by papering the windows with the terse message, "Opening, Saint Laurent, Greene Street" with no specific date, but a photo of the white marble that is becoming a signature of the new Hedi Slimane-designed boutique concept. From what we could see inside through the open doorway, it looks like the store could easily make the May opening that was suggested recently. White marble shelves are already in place, which means that they are in the fixturing stage, so furniture and stock can't be far behind. The signage is even on the front doors already.

Presumably, once this store opens, the main Saint Laurent boutique on 57th Street will close for its own revamping so the city's outlets for the label will be consistent. If you can't wait for an in-person look at the concept, Bergdorf Goodman's in-store Saint Laurent boutiques in both the men's and women's stores are finished and open, so you can go appraise the white marble, black leather and chrome for yourself.

Previously:
Continuing Saga: SoHo's Saint Laurent To Open In May?

COMING SOON: Bonobos Takes It to The Street In SoHo

Men in need of pants will soon be getting a big break in SoHo when Bonobos, the 6-year old men's sportswear company opens its first street level shop at 25 Crosby Street. Of course, there is no shortage of available pants, but Bonobos has swiftly built a strong internet business based on expertly cut trousers for gentlemen without ever opening an actual store. They are one of the big e-commerce success stories of recent years, not unlike eyewear brand Warby Parker which also just opened its first public store a few blocks away. This will not actually be Bonobos' first boutique, exactly, since it won't be a traditional store with any merchandise at all —yet. Called a "guide shop" the space will provide try-on samples of the brand's collection which customers will be able to order and have sent to their homes, much like a similar, appointment-only service currently available in the company's Chelsea showroom. Another Guide Shop is set to open in Bethesda MD later this year, with more likely to follow. How long the company will be able to go without opening a full service retail store remains a question given its fast growth. It has gotten big enough to hire up-and-coming menswear designer Ian Velardi as creative director, so you can expect a more refined fashion edge in the offerings which have grown to include sportswear, tailored suits and accessories. For now, appointments are recommended when the Guide Shop opens later this month, joining other menswear shops like Saturday's Surf and Carson Street Clothiers on what is becoming a much busier strip of Crosby Street.

Bonobos picks quiet Crosby St. for new store (Crain's)

JON CARAMANICA GOES SHOPPING: Short-Burn Nostalgia Edition

In this week's Thursday Styles, Critical Shopper Jon Caramanica presents readers with what seems like a first. VFiles is, apparently, a store based on a social platform. While we were wrapping our heads around that idea, we took a quick look at Vfiles.com, which appears to be a compendium of fashion and pop-culture images and media that could easily send the distracted down a rabbit hole of time-wasting from which there may be no escape. Caramanica calls it "consuming the existing in order to make something new." The value of the result may be open to debate.

But back to the store. Our shopper compares it to "shopping in an office," but finds fascination in the shop's fixation with 90s fashion, nightlife and media —think of it as the internet discovering the last minute before everything in our culture got processed through the World Wide Web.

But the items themselves are alive with history, building blocks for someone inclined to mainline the 1990s in all its forms. That’s the sea VFiles is swimming in — short-burn nostalgia, a choice based on beauty or convenience or both.

It puts Caramanica (and The Shophound, for that matter) in the odd position of seeing someone pore over the detritus of a lost era that doesn't actually seem too far away. It also reminded us that when retro styles come around you need to think twice about re-embracing them if you wore them the first time around.

Critical Shopper: Building Blocks All in a Row By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
VFiles 12 Mercer Street at Howard Street, SoHo

LUXURY GROUP SWITCHEROO: Non-Saint Laurent Store In SoHo To Become Balenciaga Men's Store

Now we have the final piece of the puzzling story of the shop that was to be a Saint Laurent boutique at 149 Mercer Street. The space, which before it was banished behind misleadingly labeled plywood has held John Varvatos and Napapijri boutiques, will become a Balenciaga men's boutique to complement the flagship store for the label that is under construction across the street at number 148. This will be the brand's first freestanding men's store in the U.S., and, as far as we can tell, possibly in the world. Of course, this makes perfect sense, since Balenciaga, like Yves Saint Laurent, is owned by Kering (formerly known as PPR) which would simplify any lease transfer issues.

Originally set to be opened before Yves Saint Laurent underwent a revamp by new creative director Hedi Slimane, the store was delayed, and delayed, and then ultimately moved to an entirely different space on Greene Street, leaving the fate of the apparently unloved Mercer Street location in question. WWD answered that question for us by casually dropping the bit of information while reporting on the label's Fall advertising campaign. Interestingly, it will also be one of the first new stores from Balenciaga's own closely watched creative revamp under designer Alexander Wang. Hopefully, the store will open concurrently with it's counterpart this Fall.

Alexander Wang Goes Cinematic for First Balenciaga Campaign (WWD)
Previously:
Coming Soon...Sort Of: Saint Laurent's SoHo Saga Continues