The Shophound

Collaboration Anticipation: UNIQLO's +J Spring Collection Set For Mid-January Launch

Those of you who have been breathlessly waiting for the next installment of UNIQLO's collaboration with the designer Jil Sander, +J, can mark your calendars and begin the countdown. A new installment, the Spring 2010 collection, will be available in the U.S. on Thursday,  January 14^th. This time, the company is planning a regional rollout for the collection , releasing it in Asia just a few days before Christmas on December 23^rd, in the UK on January 7^th and finally in France on the 20^th.
So far, no images have been released, but WWD reports that the collection will include, 'knitwear, jackets, shirts and other items in fabrics such as waterproof ultra-fine cottons, high tech-satins and “sumptuous wools.” The palette will feature white, ivory, pastel hues and “chalked out acids,” the company said.'
Of all the collaborations out there (and they seem to be increasing exponentially) regular readers know that this is one of our very favorites, and if last October's début is anything to go by, the lines will be long to get into the store on the first few days, so get there early.
If you are wondering why New York, London and Paris have to wait so long after the Asian stores, it is probably because the western stores have a separate production with different sizing. Some shoppers have discovered this as the SoHo location recently received replenishments in the smaller Japanese sizes (Check the hangtag. If it's in Japanese, size up.). As for the the fall collections, UNIQLO has begun to mark down a few remaining categories like Men's knits, and there appear to be plenty of coats left for Men and Women.
As for pictures, we'll have them up as soon as we get 'em.
UPDATE:
We have pictures! See above and after the jump and thanks to some stellar UNIQLO PR
Uniqlo's +J Spring-Summer Collection Set to Launch (WWD)
UNIQLO +J Official Site

Cintra Wilson Goes Shopping:Pricey Pre-Owned Edition

This week's Critical Shopper column pulls Cintra Wilson off the designer boutique circuit and sends her into the world of vintage, although, it must be said, she winds up in the world of SoHo vintage shops, which is not exactly a huge leap.
In fact, it is safe to say that Chelsea Girl and Laurel Canyon, the pair of stores graced with her visits, sell old clothes for many times their original purchase prices. "The most popular rack is a collection of never-before-worn, Diane Von Furstenberg deadstock from 1976: wraparound career dresses ($225) that look very right-this-second with their orange palm tree and New Wave Dalmatian prints," she writes, and yet, we are pretty sure that in 1976, a DVF wrap dress retailed for around $100 at the most.
Of course, this is vintage as collectible, which is nothing new to New York shoppers, and these stores are not to be compared with rummaging through Beacon's Closet.
La Cintra shines this week when she places the merchandise she encounters in in context, real or, better, imaginary:

Ms. Casas had me try on a “stunning crochet vest with Victorian silhouette, $275.” It was a Korean-made, acrylic macramé cardigan from the early ’70s that looked like something Better Homes and Gardens would feature as an autumn sofa decoration. On the body, however, it was slim, fitted and had a remarkably shaped bustle, a design diamond plucked from the detritus of the past.

A glamtastic black wool Givenchy dress had strips of white rhinestones outlining diamond-shape cutouts at the bust and rib cage, and must have been worn by Nancy Sinatra around the baccarat table ($750).

Of course, you might not want to think too hard about where those clothes came from. That early Calvin Klein coat priced at $950 seems like a good deal for a Calvin coat that might go for a couple of thousand today, even if it only originally cost maybe $300.
Critical Shopper: The Reunion Tour, for Clothes Only By Cintra Wilson (NYTimes)
Laurel Canyon 63 Thompson Street at Broome Street
Chelsea Girl 186 Spring Street at Thompson Street, SoHo

Today In Switcheroos:SoHo Finally Gets A GAP

It seems hard to believe that with all of its chain stores over the years, SoHo has gone without its own GAP store despite having multiple American Apparels, Club Monacos and G-Stars. With all the attention we paid to the smothering service at the newly consolidated Banana Republic flagship, it might have been easy to miss that the abandoned Banana men's store had been swiftly converted to a Gap 1969 jeans concept location.
This particular branch is based on a pop-up store that was opened in August in Los Angeles to promote the chain's newly refreshed 1969 denim collections, and jeans are the focal point of the store, featuring every possible permutation of the chain's core product. Though there is stiff competition from UNIQLO up the street, we are impressed with Gap's new denim program, especially considering that the "premium" collection tops out at about $88 for selvedge styles and stands up well to much more expensive designer brands. To keep the emphasis on jeans, the rest of the offerings have been pared back with an emphasis on basics and a few choice specialty items like a leather zip hoodie at nearly $400. As easy as it is to complain about the proliferation of chain stores in Manhattan, we'll continue to praise Patrick Robinson credit for restyling the Gap back to life.
Considering that the next closest location was a long hike away up on Astor Place, it was a no-brainer to turn the space left behind by its sibling on Spring Street into a Gap. After Banana's furnishings had been cleared, Gap's store designers cleverly whitewashed the existing space, added new light wood shelves and installed a dramatic glass wall at the back of the store that serves as a window to a vast denim stockroom. Voilà! It's a Gap. While we think speed was the main priority here, we have to give the massive chain credit for "recycling" the store rather than gutting it and unnecessarily installing a new interior.
And by the way, unlike its sibling up the street, the Gap's service is appropriately friendly but not overwhelming, so feel free to walk in without being greeted to excess.
Gap 1969 552 Broadway at Spring Street, SoHo
Previously
Renovations Unveiled: Banana Republic Will Welcome You To Death

Weekend Events: Fashion For Action Goes Public & The Pop-Up Flea Returns

It was nice to see a cluster of mannequins once again in the old home of Barneys Womens' Store on 17^th Street. The Rubin Museum of Art (which, by the way is worth a visit anytime for its beautiful Himalayan collection) became a rollicking cocktail lounge last night for the benefit preview of Housing Works' Fashion for Action benefit which, aside from lots of cocktails and food, included silent auctions from the likes of Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Gucci, Chado-Ralph Rucci and many others. Thanks to Gilt Groupe for including The Shophound as their VIP guest for the event.
Eventually, revelers drifted across the street to the Housing Works Chelsea Thrift Shop for a preview of the sample sale which kicks into high gear today as it opens to the public. through Sunday. For those of you who find thrift shopping a little bit musty (and we know you are out there) rest assured that Fashion For Action offers almost entirely new unworn goods donated by nearly every designer and retailer you can think of with with many items in full size ranges and everything priced at around wholesale levels or below. There were abundant racks from Diane von Furstenberg, John Varvatos, Michael Kors, Gilt and many more. We saw a shelves full of Oliver Peoples sunglasses and Constança Basto heels, and if you have enough clothes, there was an entire section of fragrances including some newly launched scents. As always, proceeds benefit Housing Works which brings community-based HIV/AIDS treatment and prevention programs to neighborhoods throughout the city including housing and other vital services.
If that sounds like too much commotion for you, The Pop-Up Flea is returning to NoLita starting today at 3 PM. The weekend-long shop brings together an assortment of goods specially curated by Randy Goldberg and Michael Williams of the website A Continuous Lean. It's not a sale, but more like one-stop shopping for guys with very specific tastes that might include labels like Billykirk, Rogues Gallery and Burkman Bros. to name a few. You don't have to wear your Red Wing boots, but it couldn't hurt. Rumor has it that drinking will be involved. You need more encouragement?
Housing Works Fashion For Action Public Sample Sale through Sunday at the Chelsea Thrift Shop 143 West 17^th Street
The Pop-Up Flea through Sunday at 201 Mulberry Street, Nolita

Commenters Respond: A Sour Banana

Thanks to the folks at Jezebel and RACKED a lot more people than usual read our account of visiting the smothering, newly renovated SoHo Banana Republic, and naturally, a few of them had something to say in response.
From Emma:

I worked at Banana for a soul-crushing two weeks some time ago, and I promise you, most of those sales staff would like nothing better than to leave you alone. But the managers (of which, like you said, there are ALWAYS too many of) stand around doing absolutely nothing, just watching the sales staff and how they interact with customers.

From VA:

HA HA, i've worked in Banana Republic for years and know exactly what being pressured into modeling a behavior that you know will actually turn customer off rather than "welcome them in" feels like.

Of course, there is always the contrarian, who sounds suspiciously defensive of Banana Republic, like Christophershawn:

The store is beautiful and I found it refreshing that the staff was excited about it's opening. YES it's rude, lacks class and any sort of maturity to enter a store with headphones on. Stay home. shop online. Going shopping is about engaging with people and enjoying the EXPERIENCE. Retail is lacking true excitement, passion and inspiration a store. Apathy is so common.
I thank the team at this store for the amazing energy they brought into this gorgeous store, I look forward to making this a must visit when in SOHO.

Seriously, Christohershawn, it's kind of up to the customer to decide what shopping is all about. Perhaps you have read too many books about retail management. And by the way, do you think that we can't smell a plant or a shill from miles away? We wish you the best of luck with your career at Banana Republic.
Previously:
Renovations Unveiled: Banana Republic Will Welcome You To Death

Renovations Unveiled: Banana Republic Will Welcome You To Death

So, we found ourselves walking past the newly reconfigured Banana Republic in SoHo at what must have been only moments after its soft opening began (the store officially opens on Thursday).
Honestly, we almost didn't go in —not because we are so very jaded that we don't care. The Shophound is always curious, but we know what it's like on the first day. Everyone is raring to go and they are so glad to see you! It can be a bit off- putting to say the least, but the folks at the new Banana have taken customer smothering to new, disturbing heights.
Let us note that the store was filled with more than overeager sales staff. It was also crawling, predictably, with Banana Republic executives who were standing around in typical fashion, either congratulating themselves on their beautiful new store or poking around the place making sure that every piece of merchandise was placed just so —the cuffs and collars on all the hanging shirts turned up at the correct angle, and every faced out coat paired with a suitably coordinated sweater and scarf. It's a salesperson's nightmare —like having 20 managers at once. It puts staff on their best selling behavior, which, paradoxically, is often, at the same time, their worst.
Was it rude for us to enter the store wearing earphones? Probably, but we weren't going to power down our iPod just to wander around a Banana Republic. You would think an observant salesperson would know how to approach someone with earphones who is clearly keeping to himself. It's not like they are a rarity in the iPod age, but we were stunned by how many people eagerly wanted to engage us in conversation even though our ears were obviously otherwise occupied. One determined woman launched into a whole story about how it was a soft opening and the store really was opening on Thursday and something about a charity shopping event and just wouldn't stop even after we looked at her funny,  pulled one earphone out and said, "Okay, thanks". She mostly succeeded in interrupting a perfectly enjoyable edition of the "This American Life" podcast. Of course, she was nothing compared to the effusive gentleman greeting everyone coming and going at the door with wide swinging arms. "Thank you for choosing Banana Republic," he chimed as we exited while yet another person thanked us for visiting their new store at the same time.

Pop-Up Extension: The Limited Hangs Around Awhile

Anyone who missed The Limited's four day return to Manhattan last month (like us, for example) can rest easy because the pop-up store on Spring Street where Hogan used to live (whatever happened to Hogan, anyway?) has been extended through December as a result of overwhelming response. Since its opening, the temporary store has been one of the best performing units in the chain.
The Limited!
Go figure.
Perhaps absence has made the hearts of Manhattanites grow fonder, but, frankly, we barely noticed it had been missing for 10 years, which is why its parent company, Limited Brands, practically gave away sold a majority stake in its namesake division to Sun Capital Partners a couple of years ago. Sun now has the task of turning around a once powerful chain that had become irrelevant enough to put into retail foster care.
So what does The Limited look like today?
Not half bad.
Proving the chain's relevance will be an uphill battle in a crowded market with a penny pinching customer base. The chain now has to compete with the Zaras and H&Ms of the world, and a Topshop ready to further invade its home turf, but a revitalized design team seems to be working hard to make the store appealing again. If what's in the pop-up is any indication, they're doing an admirable job with the revamped Limited looking fresh, on-trend and well priced, putting it way ahead of most mall chains. Apparently, the challenge of being the underdog has revitalized it. Along with the chain's private labels Forenza and Outback Red, The Limited has even revived one of the staples of its '80s heyday, the brightly colored shaker knit sweater. We're a little on the fence about this idea. Anyone who was around then can easily recall the late '80s glut of shaker knit sweaters as the popular item replicated itself throughout the mall, though that might give the item just enough nostalgic camp appeal to stage a comeback.
There's talk that if things go well, The Limited might stay on Spring Street permanently. We think they are better suited to a Broadway location a few blocks away, to be honest, but so far the chain has done an unexpectedly good job earning its comeback.
The Limited NYC Pop-Up through December 28^th (for now) 134 Spring St., between Wooster and Greene Streets, SoHo
Previously:
Limited Unloads The Limited...For Less Than Nothing.

UNIQLO Alert: +J Is Back In Stock With A Surprise Delivery

As if we haven't written enough about UNIQLO this week, we wouldn't want to miss telling you that the SoHo flagship has received a surprise replenishment of the +J collection designed by Jil Sander direct from Japan to satisfy everyone who missed out on the best pieces last month.
The one caveat is that because the goods are from the Japanese stores, they are in smaller Japanese sizes which may be cut slightly differently.
Most people don't realize it, but UNIQLO has different production runs specifically cut for its New York, London and now Paris stores. To make your shopping easier, the store has posted handy size translation charts over the newly replenished +J racks (pictured above), and recommends careful trying on before you buy.
Back in the store are such long gone items as woven shirts for men and women, men's tailored jackets and pants. Many women's separates, knitwear and sold out outerwear pieces for both genders have also returned, so if you weren't quick enough to get what you wanted the first time, here's your second chance (especially if you are on the petite side).
The easiest way to discern the Japanese sized items from the Western ones? Check the hangtags. The Japanese ones will be mostly written in...you guessed it...Japanese!

Weekend Washouts: Is Gucci's Sneaker Pop-up A Bust?

As you can see from the picture above, Gucci was prepared with velvet ropes for the hordes of people that were expected to descend upon opening of the heavily promoted Gucci Icon-Temporary store in SoHo last weekend.
So where were they?
When we stopped by the Crosby street store last Saturday at around Noon, there was not a soul in the place, let alone anyone waiting outside, except for the properly decorous staff, smartly turned out in crisp white shirts. So what went wrong? Was it the weather? Though it was gloomy, there was hardly the kind of rain that would keep an enthusiastic shopper home on a Saturday. Perhaps confusion over the opening caused problems, as Gucci had earlier announced last Friday, not Saturday as the opening day. Was it location? While Crosby Street is just off the beaten path in SoHo, it's hardly so obscure that people wouldn't notice the big neon Gucci signs behind Bloomingdale's (though the Meatpacking District would have been a far better choice).
Maybe it's none of the above. Perhaps the folks at Gucci miscalculated when they thought that in 2009 they should be centering a costly promotion around sneakers that sell for for more than $500 (including some styles going for up to $1400)  —superDJ Mark Ronson's participation notwithstanding. While the Gucci Icon-Temporary shop was set up to attract collectors, it appears that the luxury brand has limited clout among sneaker folk. After all, sneakers are hardly their stock in trade. Limited edition loafers? That might have attracted some interest, and made rather a bit more sense for the brand. Maybe a couple of years ago, when mindless extravagance was the order of the day, they could have whipped up more excitement among shoppers, but it's a different world now —and apparently a different Gucci. The shop itself is a well executed, crisp white interior, like the inside of an expensive shoebox, and Mark Ronson's boat shoe/sneaker hybrid, designed in collaboration with Gucci creative director Frida Gianini, is an interesting design, but most of the other styles look like Nikes or Adidas that have had their logos replaces with Gucci flair and perhaps a touch of alligator here and there. Apparently this is not enough to get the same masses who will spend hours in line in front of A Bathing Ape for every new release.
Perhaps things will pick up over the next two weeks of the shop's appearance. Maybe Miami, the store's next scheduled stop, will be more receptive to the merchandise before the whole affair heads off to London and Tokyo and other international destinations. If the rest of the world seems to be as underwhelmed as New York, however, this might be a good opportunity for the folks at Gucci to ponder exactly what they think their label is supposed to stand for.
Gucci Icon-Temporary Crosby Street between Spring & Broome Streets, approximately through November 7th (?)

Fashion Unchained: SoHo's Sol De Ibiza Lives

A couple of weeks ago we reported that the SoHo boutique Sol de Ibiza had been closed in a manner that was clearly.... involuntary.
Owner Leslie Bettison has contacted The Shophound to let us all know that her eviction has been ruled illegal in court, and the chains pictured above have been removed from the front doors.
Sol de Ibiza is fully stocked and once again open for business.
Previously:
Fashion In Chains: SoHo's Sol de Ibiza Gets The Lockup
Sol de Ibiza 52 Greene Street between Broome & Grand Streets