Phillip Lim Takes Over New Space on Mercer

And Phillip Lim's roll continues. This week the 3.1 Phillip Lim boutique debuted, and while its midweek opening was quieted by thunderstorms and exploding midtown sidewalks, we expect the heavy weekend crowds to more than make up for it. Lim's capsule collection for UNIQLO was the one that caused a bona fide frenzy, and with support from the CFDA and major press, Lim has found himself in the position of "designer to watch". While many have wilted under such pressure, Lim seems more than prepared, and has carved out a niche for himself somewhere between the upper reached of the Contemporary category and the increasingly lofty Designer department. For his own store, he hired young architect Jeremy Barbour to transform the sadly short-lived Space Mercer store into something that reflects Lim's subtle aesthetic that transforms often humble materials into something rich. Oak floorboards are stacked horizontally to create a textured wall while cinder blocks are cunningly used to create the small downstairs which holds the line's most elegant pieces. His lucite display tables will now forever be associated with Wonder Woman's invisible plane, giving the rough hewn interior a light, high-tech gloss.
As for the clothes, the newly delivered fall line reflects that Lim clearly has the skill to compete in fashion's top levels, but has strategically chosen to keep his prices at least relatively more affordable. The collection reflects much greater sophistication than your typical contemporary line. The menswear collection, launched at Barneys this past spring, may need a bit more development. Equally sophisticated as the women's line, Lim adds covered buttons and softer fabrics to classic pieces, but beautifully draped tees in featherweight jersey with hand rolled necklines and edges may, for example, be a bit too androgynous to reach the kind of commercial success of his main collection. A fly-front gabardine trench, however is a winner, and Lim is nothing if not commercially savvy. We're guessing it won't take him long to get the men's line up to speed. Coming up, a capsule children's line for Holiday, and in the Spring, a collaboration with Birkenstock as well as a redesigned label that takes his full name out of shadow script.
It's about time.
3.1 Phillip Lim 115 Mercer Street, SoHo