Spring '08 New York Fashion Week: Triumphant Runway Debut • Adam Lippes

Sept. 5, 5 PM DIA Center for the Arts • ADAM by ADAM LIPPES
All this from T-shirts and underpants? Adam Lippes' rapid rise got another boost when he made his runway debut this week. It's not just anyone who gets the cover of WWD after his first full runway show. It's a big month for Lippes as his first boutique is set to open shortly on Hudson Street, but so far he is pulling off his company's swift evolution with aplomb. Even an unplanned label change seems to be going smoothly as his brand, formerly known as Adam + Eve, is now called simply Adam by Adam Lippes. At any rate, it has become enough of a draw to get The Shophound to drag ourselves all the way West to the DIA Center on 22nd street on a warm afternoon. A first runway show can be dicey if the line isn't quite ready for prime time, but despite his youth, Lippes is a pro, and though he moved beyond innerwear seasons ago, this season's show allowed him to make a more complete statement for both men and women. Though he started with neutrals, he quickly layered vibrant color onto the looks. He managed to quote artwork by Morris Louis and Sonia Delaunay quite literally on softly draped dresses and added intricate pleating details to separates without looking precious or obvious. Easy graceful sportswear is harder to pull off than it looks, but this show suggests that Lippes can expect strong business when his store opens later this month.