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How's That Yves Saint Laurent Store Coming Along In SoHo?

Don't hold your breath for that Yves Saint Laurent store on Mercer Street to open anytime soon. Yesterday, the folks at Racked did a survey of the upcoming luxury boutiques in SoHo and found Tiffany's store to be on track for Fall, while Balenciaga's showed activity but an indeterminate opening date. Yves Saint Laurent, however remained padlocked with no apparent activity. The original plywood decoration indicated an early 2012 opening, but that ship has obviously sailed, and it was planned before the recent creative switchover from designer Stefano Pilati to returning favorite Hedi Slimane. Now it reads simply, "Opening Soon", and also sports some graffiti (above), suggesting that it has not been receiving much attention lately. It would be unrealistic to think that the company would open a new store reflecting a design concept sure to be rendered obsolete almost immediately.

Today's WWD reports that Slimane, whose upcoming Women's Resort and Men's Spring collections are to be kept under wraps and shown only to select retailers until after the Women's Spring Prêt-à-Porter collection is shown this Fall, is devising a major revamp for the brand. Changes are said to include a renaming of the label from "Yves Saint Laurent" to "Saint Laurent Paris", and while the iconic, Cassandre designed "YSL" insignia is expected to remain a part of the brand's image, Slimane is believed to be developing new logos for the house as well as developing new store design concepts. Reportedly, the returning designer, who was given “total creative responsibility for the brand image and all its collections”, is looking to signal a new era for the brand  but also looking to recapture some of the excitement of the label's history. It's worth noting that the YSL Ready-to-Wear collections were originally called "Saint Laurent Rive Gauche" with a distinctly different logo.

Given that bit of news, we don't expect the SoHo Saint Laurent shop to open before Slimane has a new store concept set —certainly not before next Spring at the earliest. How fashion fans will react to new branding remains to be seen. There's no word as to whether this rebranding will extend to the YSL fragrance and cometic lines, but if anyone has anything critical to say about the new name, the first person to weigh in will probably be former YSL chief Pierre Bergé. He has not been known to mince words regarding Slimane's predecessors in the creative role at YSL, so brace yourselves for some pointed opinions one way or the other.

Name Change Ahead at Yves Saint Laurent (WWD)
Checking In on Soho's Luxe Boom: Tiffany, YSL, Balenciaga

After WWD's report, an Yves Saint Laurent spokesperson officially clarified Hedi Slimane's rebranding plan. The designer is looking to return the house to the branding and logo scheme of 1966, the year that Yves Saint Laurent launched his Rive Gauche Prêt-à-Porter collection, “restoring the house to its truth, purity and essence — and taking it into a new era” while “respecting the original principles and ideals.”

The Rive Gauche name is not expected to return, so the line will be called "Saint Laurent Paris" but using the 1966 fonts and graphics, similar to the vintage logo  below:

The original Yves Saint Laurent logo and YSL insignia, created in 1961 at the inception of the house, will continue to be used "institutionally" and when appropriate as they were in 1966 when the full name label was reserved for the now defunct Haute Couture collection. (Could Slimane be planning to revive YSL Couture? Let's not get ahead of ourselves.) The new graphic are expected to be well in place when Slimane's official relaunch collections for Spring-Summer 2013 hit the selling floors.

The new/old scheme could be seen as a window to Slimane's concept for the brand. While Stefano Pilati focused on a modernist, sometimes minimalist interpretation of the Saint Laurent look, Slimane appears to be more interested in looking at the label's more colorful, sometime exuberant side. Will the SoHo boutique resemble the classic Rive Gauche look with chrome, mirrors and liberal helping of black and red lacquered detailing? Looks like we will find out sometime next year.

Hedi Slimane to Reset YSL to 1966 (WWD)


International Swim Edition

21CRITICAL_SPAN-articleLargeIt seems that the Critical Shoppers are on compare and contrast missions this month in the Thursday Styles. Last week we got surf shops, and this week, Alexandra Jacobs takes on the task that supposedly fills every non-supermodel woman with dread: bathing suit shopping. In an international face-off, of a sort, she plays Australian newcomer Zimmerman off longtime hometown favorite, Malia Mills. Guess who wins? We won't spoil it for you toot much, but suffice it to say that the interloper from Down Under does not make the most favorable initial impression.

Zimmermann stocks a few ready-to-wear items, like the translucent floral chiffon frock my greeter had on, but its specialty is teeny-weeny suits that are not for the meek or mushy-stomached.

Don't think that Malia Mills gets off so easily even though her Made In U.S.A. suits seem to offer more coverage. Ultimately, the store you will like better will really depend on the relative sizes of your wallet and ass, so choose judiciously.

Critical Shopper: A Day at the Beach? Suit Yourself By Alexandra Jacobs (NYTimes)
Zimmerman, 87 Mercer Street between Spring & Broome Streets, SoHo
Malia Mills, 199 Mulberry Street between Spring & Kenmare Strets, NoLita


Here Are Some Jeremy Scott Adidas You Won't Be Able To Buy

Designer Jeremy Scott just found out the commercial limits of a subversive sensibility when Adidas just canceled one of his latest sneaker designs. The JS Roundhouse Mid (pictured above) features a set of cartoonish, yellow rubber cuffs chained to the ankle of each shoe that resemble slave shackles just a bit too much for some civil rights leaders. Despite no direct racial or historical references in the design (They are yellow rubber, after all), Adidas chose to remove the shoes from production after an appearance on the brand's Facebook page drew complaints. Originally meant to be delivered in August, the sneakers will not be delivered at all, and Adidas released the following statement:

The design of the JS Roundhouse Mid is nothing more than the designer Jeremy Scott's outrageous and unique take on fashion and has nothing to do with slavery ... We apologize if people are offended by the design and we are withdrawing our plans to make them available in the marketplace.

Translated: These sneakers have nothing to do with slavery, but putting them on the market is not worth the trouble they are already causing. You'll have to decide for yourself whether or not this look is offensive or just silly, but click after the jump to watch a CNN anchor attempt suggest to Rev. Jesse Jackson that the Civil Rights movement may have bigger fish to fry, and you may get a better understanding of why Adidas decided to just cave.

Jeremy Scott’s Controversial ‘Shackle’ Sneakers Won’t Be Sold (The Cut)
Adidas cancels 'shackle' shoes after outcry (CNN)

Continue reading "SNEAKER SCANDAL:

Here Are Some Jeremy Scott Adidas You Won't Be Able To Buy" »


Saturday's Now Surfing
In The West Village

It was probably less than opportune that the Times' Critical Shopper gave a less than charitable assessment of Saturday's Surf's technical sports credibility only a day before it opened its second New York location. It hardly seems to matter, however after a casual drop-in at the new shop on the corner of Perry and Waverly. Much like its SoHo mothership, the new store has almost instantly established itself as a cozy hangout with the front bench in busy use. Yes, there is a rack of surfboards for sale, but The Shophound is in no position to judge whether this is the best place for  serious surf gear. The spotlight here is really on the classic tees, trunks and khakis that have put this label on the list of GQ's Best New Menswear Designers In America. This version of the store is more spacious than the original with plenty of room for that expanding clothing collection, and more cleverly placed on a corner that is set off from Seventh Avenue just enough for visibility without hustle and bustle, or what passes for it in the West Village. Ultimately, more than shopping, it seems to encourage its customers to hang out and have some coffee,and, oh, maybe pick up a t-shirt or two while you're here. In that sense, it feels more like it has migrated from Abbott Kinney in Venice, California than SoHo, and that's probably just the point.

Saturday's Surf NYC 17 Perry Street at Waverly Place and Seventh Avenue South
NEW FRONTIERS: Saturday's Surf Heads West (Village)


In Which We Literally Get The First Look At This Week's J.Crew Sample Sale

We thought we would have at least a few minutes or so of waiting on the sidewalk to get into the press preview for this week's J.Crew Sample Sale. After all, there was a sizable line at Gant last month on preview day, and J.Crew is known for inspiring some major queues at its sample sales. When we got there ten minutes before the preview was scheduled to start, we were pretty surprised to find no line at all, so we waited, all by ourself for nine and a half minutes at which point fifteen people magically materialized behind us. In the meantime, more than a few passersby tried to cajole their way in, but the staff at 260 Fifth Avenue was characteristically firm about requiring RSVPs. A minute or so later, we were admitted to find... your basic J.Crew sample sale.

JCsale-ASo here's what you can expect to find: Mostly samples. Typically, we would try to catch a shot of the price lists, but there was one posted. Instead, each item was priced as marked, and if you think we scurried around noting the price of everything, you will be mistaken. We have our limits, but it seemed that most things were priced at 50% to 70% off retail. Most T-shirts are $15. Most Men's woven shirts were $30. Most dressier shoes were $100, and cashmere sweaters were $90, so you can basically figure out what kind of prices to expect from that. There seemed to be an abundance of apparel, and, at least in menswear, we found a decent amount of Larges and Smalls in certain categories aside form the rack of sample sized Mediums. There were three or four cases of women's jewelry with pieces that looked to be about $35, and plenty of shoes, at least to start with. Men' accessories were limited to one small box of ties, and you could count the number of men's shoes one hand.

Our main bit of advice for this sale is not to go expecting to find a particular favorite piece from the season. This is a real hit-or-miss sale of (need we remind you) actual samples, but there will be surprises. Among the handful of $15 tees we grabbed was one from Saturday's Surf (currently $48), which J.Crew carries in select locations. It was priced the same as the others, so this is a sale where you might want to keep an eye out for oddball gems.

J.Crew Sample Sale featuring Madewell & Crewcuts 260 Fifth Avenue between 28th & 29th Streets, Flatiron District


Donna Karan, MARNI, John Hardy, +Beryll, NUMBER:Lab, Waterford, Bottega Veneta, Jimmy Choo, Marchesa, McQ, Simon Spurr, Marvel

Here is your weekly sampling of some of the brands you can expect to find on the bigger online Flash Sale Sites this week. You should click over to the sites themselves for a full schedule of events, and be sure to check for the correct start time for each sale. Happy clicking!

Donna Karan, Bettye Muller, Catherine Malandrino/Nili Lotan, Winter Kate, Nanette Lepore/Milly, Twelfth St. by Cynthia Vincent, 7 For All Mankind Shoes, Corso Como, Avaleigh, Lucca, Karen Walker Sunglasses, Kate Spade New York, Monika Chiang, Ted Rossi Jewelry, MARNI/Marc Jacobs Handbags, BCBGMAXAZRIA, John Hardy, Vera Wang Lavender, Matthew Williamson, Current /Elliott, Judith Leiber, Matt Bernson —join HERE
Neu Garde, Just Cavalli, Jack Victor, Ksubi Shoes, SeaVees, Calvin Klein Suiting, Kai-Aakman, NUMBER:Lab, +Beryll Sunglasses, CLAE, Sandqvist, Vanishing Elephant, PF Flyers —join HERE
Brownstone Inc., Capresso, Michael Aram, SHARK, Casegoods Storage, Zuo Lighting, BergHOFF, Matteo, iHome, Jayson Home, Rizzy Home Rugs, Eggi Kids + Baby, Petites Frites Blankets, Tweenage Dream, Amelia, Best of Bratt Decor Nursery Furniture, Science These —join HERE
Stuart Weitzman, Joie, SmashBox, Andrew Marc, Melinda Maria, McGaw Graphics, SPANX, Junior Drake, Hurley, Andre Assous, Waterford Linens, Zentique, Fancy Nancy, Madison Avenue Couture Chanel Resale, Magaschoni, Villeroy & Boch, Crabtree & Evelyn, BELLE by Sigerson Morrison, Merrell —join HERE
Jimmy Choo, Charles David, Suzi Chin, French Connection, Bottega Veneta, Church's, Ike Behar/David Donahue, Chaser L.A., Pour La Victoire, NOTTE by Marchesa, Cullen, Paul Smith, McQ by Alexander McQueen —join HERE
Betsey Johnson, CARMEN Carmen Marc Valvo, Cuisinart, Vineyard Vines, Bliss Living, Heys Luggage, Lodis Leather, Mark + James, Prada, Steve Madden, ADAM, Esprit, one90one —join HERE
Philosophy, French Connection, Calvin Klein Footwear, Gorjana, Nuco, J Brand, Balmain Swim, John Varvatos, Cuisinart, Enzo Angiolini, EDUN, Amrita Singh, Nicole Miller, Ouidad —join HERE
MARNI, Tahari ASL, Naeem Khan, Delman, Les Copains, COLLETTE by Collette Dinnigan, Chrisian Siriano, Calvin Klein Collection, Piazza Sempione, Simon Spurr, ABS, Jean-Michel Cazabat, Pringle, Luca Luca, Bron Lars, Rogan, Triple 5 Soul —join HERE
Tateossian, Yves Delorme, Blush —join HERE
Marvel Comics Fine Art, J. Fold, Angela Adams, Libbey, Mattias Heiderich, Inhabit, Mason Cash, Zeroll, Giorgio Fedon 1919, F. is for Frank —join HERE


Mr. Porter's And USA Network's
Suits & Style Ends This Weekend

In the past couple of years, we have seen few TV networks take better advantage of a fashion collaboration than USA has to sell its programming to the public —particularly the New York public. Just a few years ago, it had hundreds of eager folks lined up through Rockefeller Center's Channel Gardens for a free Thomas Pink shirt to promote its his series "White Collar". The next season USA teamed up with Brooks Brothers and Gilt for a similar online freebie, and now the network has moved on to its latest hit, "Suits" with a Meatpacking District Pop-up Shop in conjunction with online retailer Mr. Porter and Vanity Fair.

SuitsTablePerhaps its just the combination of tall, well dressed leading men starring in a roster of shows named after clothes that makes these promotions almost too obvious, but what they express in on-the-nose-ness, they make up for in execution. Sadly there have no big giveaways at the Suits & Style shop on Gansevoort Street, but Mr. Porter has stocked the store with accessories from brands like that coincidentally make excellent Fathers' Day gifts, along with appearing to have dropped from the prop and wardrobe trailers of the show's stars Gabriel Macht and Patrick J. Adams. Shoeshines and a little pampering from Men's treatment line Aesop are also on offer along with, of course, plenty of drinks. The real intrigue, however, is the series of touch-screen tables which allow the user to style up a few virtual outfits from Mr. Porter's stockrooms. Essentially, it's high-tech paper dolls, but don't tell that to the gentlemen who find themselves mesmerised by the tabletop toy.

SuitsShelbyTimed to coincide with last night's second season premiere of "Suits", the shop will close after this weekend, and if accessories, shoeshines and computer tables aren't enough of a lure, then at least stop by for a look at the Shelby Charger parked out front. If a supercool car can't get you down there, then we can't help you.

USA Network and Mr. Porter Suits & Style Pop Up Shop open through Sunday, June 17th at 72 Gansevoort Street between Washington & Greenwich Streets, Meatpacking District.
Today In Complimentary Items: How Long Would We Stand In Line For A Free Shirt? (10/22/2009)


Pseudo Surf Edition

14zCRITICAL5-popupThis week's Critical Shopper, Jon Caramanica, makes a tribute of sorts so the beginning of Summer as he somewhat cruelly compares SoHo's Saturday's Surf NYC, the editor's darling and one of GQ's Best New Menswear Designers with Pilgrim Surf + Supply, an actual surf store.

It's almost unfair to compare the two at all. After all, the "Surf" on Saturday's banner is in much smaller type, and the brand's real meat and potatoes is crisp, casual sportswear that technically require no waves. Surfing here seems to be more of a theme than a goal as our shopper tells us, "There’s a rack of surfboards near the front of the store, like an art display you walk past to get to the clothes".

Conversely, while Williamsburg has more than its share of poseurs, its Pilgrim Surf + Supply appears to be the real thing,

While I was at Pilgrim, someone drove up in a small truck and pulled a surfboard out of the back, which he proceeded to scrutinize with a couple of friends. I asked a salesman with a load of curls atop his head and sun-reddened skin if he wouldn’t rather be in the ocean than working the floor, and he said “Of course.”

Well, that clarifies things for anyone hung up on tiresome concepts like "authenticity" or "street credibility". Obviously, The Shophound will be shopping at Saturday's.

Critical Shopper: The Big Wave Will Have to Wait By Jon Caramanica (NYTimes)
Saturday's Surf NYC 31 Crosby Street between Broome & Grand Streets, SoHo
Pilgrim Surf + Supply 68 North Third Street at Wythe Avenue, Williamsburg


H&M Confirms Maison Martin Margiela For This Fall's Big Collaboration

After a smattering of rumors yesterday afternoon, H&M confirmed that its next big designer collaboration will be with Maison Martin Margiela by blasting the fashion press with emails mimicking the peculiarly cryptic style of its new partner. As an example, see the above image of the house's staff. The one-off collection for men and women will drop on November 15th in "around 230 stores worldwide" as well as online in countries where that is available from H&M (not here, so far).

In keeping with the Margiela custom, there are no clear images of the collection available yet, except for a pair of videos depicting sketches of a women's sweater and a men's coat with an asymmetrical pocket treatment. This will be one of the more avant-garde ventures in H&M's long series of designer collaborations, but Margiela customer will know that the house's output can range from outlandish get-ups and vintage re-creations to items so classic and simple that they can almost seem generic. Creative advisor at H&M, Margareta van den Bosch stated,

Maison Martin Margiela is one of the most important and influential fashion houses of the past three decades. I am so excited by this radical collaboration which will give fashion lovers around the world the chance to wear special pieces by Maison Martin Margiela. This collaboration will be a great and memorable fashion moment

See below for a few more of the images released so far, and after the jump for the videos, and start planning your day on November 15th to take full advantage of what is likely to be one of H&M's most intriguing collaborations.

  • The-Blouse-Blanche-A
  • Shapes-and-Volumes-A

H&M Announces An Exclusive Collaboration With MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA For Autumn/Winter 2012 (H&M Press Release)


H&M Confirms Maison Martin Margiela For This Fall's Big Collaboration" »