FASHION WEEK SNAPSHOT SPRING 2014: Wrapping It Up With Ovadia & Sons, Ralph Rucci, Duckie Brown & More
September 13, 2013
Well, The Shophound made it through another Fashion Week without too much trouble, mainly by only going to as many shows as we cared to see —no more, no less. Even so, there were a few memorable moments we missed covering during the week, so here they are. Be sure to click on the images to see them enlarged in a separate window.
CREEPIEST ACCESSORY:
This one came from Choi Boko at the Concept Korea group show in the tents (pictured above). Boko sent his post apocalyptically-styled models down the runway clutching stuffed dolls made in an equally ragged style. It was so weird that we barely noticed the enormous multicolored hairstyles.
MOST PRODIGIOUS EVOLUTION:
Twins Ariel & Shimon Ovadia staged the first Fashion Week presentation for their Ovadia & Sons label, and continued the unending streak of love from the menswear crowd that they have had since their brand started only a couple of years ago. Working in a classic vein, they have occasionally run the risk of over-emulating their idol, Ralph Lauren, but this season they cleaned up and moved in a more modern direction with lightweight anorak in reflective material, and a relaxed moto jacket in plush green suede among other covetable pieces. Also, they served everybody ice cream from a Van Leeuwen cart. You really can never go wrong with ice cream.
MOST ENTERTAINING REBOUND:
Since their last runway outing for Duckie Brown, designers Steven Cox & Daniel Silver copped a well deserved CFDA Award nomination for menswear designer of the year but also saw their collaboration line with Perry Ellis fizzle out. As if in response to that rollercoaster turn of events, the designers showed one of their most gender-bending collections ever —one that might have delighted the late designer Perry Ellis, even as it might have bewildered the folks who now run what is a fairly conservative sportswear label that bears his name. The halter tops and basketball skirts reminded us that this pair has always explored the dialectics of gender in clothing, and never have they been more eloquent or better timed.
MOST LIKELY TO BE SEEN ON THE EMMY AWARDS RED CARPET:
In decades past, when Fashion Week was a more exclusive affair, designers like Monique Lhuillier who focus primarily on eveningwear avoided the runway and showed their collections to buyers and press at quiet trade events in hotels like the Waldorf Astoria. Times have changed, and Lhuillier's lavish shows have gone a long way towards increasing respect for designers who arrived on the runway by way iof the bridal salon. A Hollywood favorite, look for plenty of her looks on the Emmy red carpet this month.
THE GUARANTEED OVATION:
Ralph Rucci doesn't just have fans, he has devotées. In the past few seasons, he has taken on new management, dropped the word Chado from his label and generally made his runway shows feel younger without sacrificing a bit of his opulent style. While his shows have often been langorous, moody affairs, the season the models, led by veteran favorite Elise Crombez, moved at a fast clip in shorter, sexier looks than ever before. We couldn't imagine his show ending without a standing ovation, and we certainly didn't have to this time. Check out some of our favorite looks in the gallery below.
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